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Mobile, Alabama bleg
I'll be there soon and I'll have a free day -- maybe even a day and a half -- and I'm wondering what to do. For all the talk about markets in everything, I can't find a good guide book on Alabama. This worries me only a little. There is Alabama Off the Beaten Path but first I would like to know the path. Your suggestions are very much welcome and since they are coming in an intellectual vacuum they will have even more influence than usual. (Imagine handing Road to Serfdom to a thirteen-year-old.) What and where does one eat? I'll also be driving on to a talk in Biloxi, in case you know of anything interesting, or any good food, on the Mobile-Biloxi route.
I am, in fact, very excited to be visiting Mobile for the first time.
Posted by Tyler Cowen on July 5, 2009 at 08:09 AM in Travels | Permalink
Comments
http://wikitravel.org/en/Mobile
Looks like the Alabama equivalent of Bridgeport, CT.
Posted by: Dan at Jul 5, 2009 8:16:10 AM
Alabama:
Depending on how far you wish to drive
There are Anniston and Talledega which are surrounded by some forest, the highest peak in Alabama is Mt. Cheha (on of my favorite places).
Horseshoe Bend is pretty entertaining for the student of Andrew Jackson.
Dothan is the peanut capital of Alabama and home to the azalea trail. It is a beautiful city and close.
Tuscaloosa has the black warrior river, the University of Alabama (complete with Bear Bryant Museum) and is close to Moundville one of the cities in the Cahokia civilization. There is great food in the area including Dreamland ribs.
Birmingham has the civil rights museum and you can drive by the 16th street Baptist church. They also have a dreamland, but not the original.
Auburn is a pretty city and small. It is closer than Tuscaloosa and has Gutherie's chicken strips and Milo's Burgers some staple Alabama fare.
Gulf Shores is near Mobile and is a popular beach destination. The Flor-Bama is a dive bar on the beach on the state line of Alabama and Florida.
Cullman has a Ava Maria Grotto where much of the bible scenes are made out of concrete and trinkets the life project of the abbot that lived there (mostly marbles won from kids). There is a large German influence in this dry county and you can get some German import souvenirs.
Muscle Shoals has a music studio where many greats recorded. The actual shoals are the sight of the 1917 build Wilson Dam, which has some public choice history. The longest cycle of unresolved voting occurred here as Henry Ford lobbied the US congress to use the Tennessee Valley rivers to provide hydro-electric for a car manufacturing center in the valley because it would be more efficient on costs.
Huntsville has the US space program and many things named after German scientists.
There are many wild and scenic miles of river and forests as Alabama was stripped of trees in the early 20th century and then the barren land was declared national forest and left to re-grow. Consequentualy Alabama has the greatest proportion of federal land of any state east of the Rocky Mountain National Park.
Tuskegee would be an interesting stop.
Driving through the southern coastal counties would never disappoint for a person watching and picking up random bits of historical architecture. Alabama itself is a museum in certain parts of the rural country.
Posted by: Michael at Jul 5, 2009 9:24:05 AM
I don't know mobile at all but I'll pass on some tips for finding good southern BBQ.
BBQ joints aren't supposed to look good. It'll be a little shack, but it'll be busy.
Go to the one that all the construction guys go to for lunch. It'll be the one with a parking lot packed with 4x4's.
Don't ever ask whats in the BBQ.
Posted by: libfree at Jul 5, 2009 9:50:30 AM
'Southern Belly' by John T. Edge suggests Wintzell's Oyster House. I have never been to Mobile, but, in the cities I know the book covers 'the path' of well-known restaurants with colorful history throughout the south. some of those are still raved about, others are resting on their laurels
Posted by: DK at Jul 5, 2009 10:32:29 AM
Go to Fairhope: http://www.cofairhope.com/pdf/FairhopeGuide2009.pdf
Posted by: Selfreferencing at Jul 5, 2009 10:44:57 AM
If you're interested in the Civil War, there is a good deal to see around Mobile. Fort Morgan is an excellent example of antebellum seacoast fortification, and played a role in the crucial Battle of Mobile Bay (of "Damn the Torpedoes" fame). Fort Blakely is the scene of the last major land battle of the Civil War, and contains many well-preserved earthworks.
Posted by: Craig Pirrong A/K/A Streetwise Professor at Jul 5, 2009 11:12:35 AM
If you have even a passing interest in WWII I would suggest visiting the U.S.S. Alabama which is in Mobile. I've been there three times including an overnight stay with my Boy Scout troop when I was 13 (hide and go seek on an empty battleship cannot ever be topped). It is totally worth the stop.
For food I would recommend The Original Oyster House in Mobile. It's fantastic.
I also second the comment about the rocket center in Huntsville. Very cool.
Posted by: Mike at The Big Stick at Jul 5, 2009 11:19:50 AM
Dauphin Island is nearby. It offers a Civil War era fort, an Esturarium, and pleasant natural beaches. Very laid-back enjoyable destination.
Posted by: Tom Zeller at Jul 5, 2009 12:03:20 PM
The USS Alabama (http://www.ussalabama.com) right on the water outside downtown Mobile is a main attraction in the city (Interesting side note: a group of people actually stayed IN the battleship during Hurricane Ivan, which took a near-direct hit on the city, and reported feeling almost no turbulence).
Then there's Bellingrath Gardens (http://www.bellingrath.org) outside of Mobile, which is a 65-acre park and museum that's always beautifully landscaped with tons of flowers.
If you have time for a side trip to the east, Pensacola and Navarre Beach (where I live) are definitely worth a visit. If you're into airplanes, the Naval Aviation Museum in Pensacola is the world's largest aviation museum -- an amazing collection of planes from the earliest days of aviation on. Downtown Pensacola on the bay is also beautiful and historic -- outside of St. Augustine, Pensacola is the oldest settlement in the US (1559), and the downtown area, though small, bears some resemblance to New Orleans in terms of architecture.
Finally, I have to plug my hometown -- Navarre Beach -- for the beaches. Beautiful white sands, aqua waters and quite pristine compared to most Florida beach towns (very little commercial development, hotels or glitz -- just lots of sand and surf). It's just a little over an hour to the east of Mobile, so worth the trip if you have the time.
Posted by: Shirley at Jul 5, 2009 12:05:02 PM
Here's what looks to be an official city guide: http://www.discoverourtown.com/AL/Mobile/Dining-91.html
The Brick Pit seems to get rave reviews all across the internets.
Guy Fieri from the Food Network seems to love a place across Mobile Bay. I don't know how far of a drive this really is: http://www.al.com/food/birminghamnews/index.ssf?/base/living/1225876587181250.xml&coll=2
Posted by: Charlie at Jul 5, 2009 12:19:52 PM
Avoid Memphis blues music while in Mobile.
Posted by: Scott Sumner at Jul 5, 2009 12:32:23 PM
The Mobile/Biloxi strip has a lot of road construction and Waffle Houses. Meridian, Miss., has the Jimmie Rodgers museum, and Monroeville, Ala., is home to Harper Lee. Don't speed on Alabama highways - they'll pull you at five over. Up in Tuscaloosa, Dreamland is good for dinner or the Waysider is good for breakfast - butteriest biscuits you'll ever have, I swear it.
Posted by: Jon Sealy at Jul 5, 2009 12:41:56 PM
Mobile will be inbelievably hot. Find some place with A/C and stay there.
Posted by: Mike Burris at Jul 5, 2009 12:53:13 PM
No need for fear. Mobile has a Ruth's Chris Steakhouse.
Try "Mobile Mansions, Taking 'Sweet Home Alabama' On the Road" by Douglas Keister
Posted by: Karen at Jul 5, 2009 1:07:58 PM
go to the brick pit for good bbq.
go to wintzells for good oysters.
go to the original oyster house for good seafood.
good luck!
Posted by: scott ball at Jul 5, 2009 1:12:26 PM
I used to live in Mobile and can confirm that the Brick Pit is where to go for barbecue. You might enjoy driving around the downtown area to look at the old houses. Down Government Street, for example.
Posted by: John at Jul 5, 2009 1:50:40 PM
The is one of those rare occasions where I can make a useful comment. Coincidentally, I'm in Mobile right now.
If you don't already have accommodations, the Battle House is supposed to be a real treat. I think it was originally built around the time of the Civil War.
I agree that a trip across the bay to Fairhope is worthwhile. There are some neat art galleries there and the Fairhope Inn is a nice restaurant. For a sandwich, try Panini Pete's.
I also agree with the Daupin Island recommendation.
Food in Mobile:
Breakfast: A Spot of Tea. It is across the street from The Cathedral of Immaculate Conception (downtown) which is worth seeing.
Oysters: fried, stewed, or nude, try Wintzell's downtown.
Seafood: Felix's Fish Camp on the causeway. This place has an atmosphere representative of the area. I love their West Indies salad.
Cajun style: The French Market Cafe is casual dining with delicious food reminiscent of New Orleans. They serve Beignets.
Mardi Gras and the associated mytstic societies are very important to Mobilians. If this interests you, there is a Mardi Gras museum downtown on Government Street. I've never been, but it looks interesting.
Posted by: PJ at Jul 5, 2009 2:35:44 PM
My younger brother started reading Road to Serfdom when he was 13.
Posted by: Anon at Jul 5, 2009 3:02:10 PM
Try Mary Mahoney's in Biloxi, with special emphasis on the seafood gumbo:
http://www.marymahoneys.com/home.html
Sadly, the Frank Gehry designed Ohr-O'keefe museum isn't completed but it's worth a trip to their temporary home to see some of the Mad Potter of Biloxi's work:
http://www.georgeohr.org/portal/LEARNMORE/GeneralInformation/tabid/116/Default.aspx
Posted by: J at Jul 5, 2009 3:34:44 PM
Lambert's, home of the throwed rolls, is in Foley, Alabama, eight miles from Gulf Shores. A great experience if you've never been there.
Posted by: emerson at Jul 5, 2009 3:57:22 PM
The two places on the coast of MS I would highly recommend are Lil' Ray's on Courthouse Rd. El Mexicano Inn on 30th Ave. in Gulfport (which is just past Biloxi coming from Mobile.) Lil Ray's is New Orleans style seafood with the best shrimp po-boy you'll ever have. El Mex is some of the best Mexican I've ever had anywhere and the margarita will make you want to plan a trip back before you've left. Be careful with the salsa, it's in a tiny cup for a reason :)
Posted by: lavaman at Jul 5, 2009 5:03:26 PM
Check out Wintzell's Oyster House (the original in downtown: http://www.wintzellsoysterhouse.com/). There are several landmarks in/near downtown, such as Fort Conde and the Battleship Alabama (WWII version). Take a day trip to Gulf Shores/Orange Beach. On the causeway across Mobile Bay, eat at Felix's Fish Camp or Ed's Seafood Shed. At Orange Beach, try a shack bar called the Flora-Bama Lounge on the state line (http://www.florabama.com/)--it's practically a national landmark. If you head over to Fairhope, eat at Panini Pete's (http://paninipetes.com/). One of the nicest places to stay is the Battle House Hotel, which is also a city landmark. Or you could try the Grand Hotel at Point Clear, which is near Fairhope.
Posted by: Taylor Nichols at Jul 5, 2009 5:16:16 PM
Mobile is a fantastic city! I hope you enjoy your trip. A lot has changed since I left for school up in Boston, so a lot of the places I'd recommend have changed.
For food, they're right about the Brick Pit for Barbecue and the Original Oyster House for seafood. Both are fantastic choices. For southern-style food, I'd recommend the Big Time Diner on Cottage Hill Road. The catfish is probably the best choice (I like the fried version, the grilled is also great), and make sure to get the turnip greens. They're the best non-home-cooked greens I've ever eaten.
Mobile has a much larger Vietnamese influence than it had when I was growing up, so there are now Vietnamese restaurants in the area. I've tried a couple of them on trips back home. The best place is on Azalea road (though it definitely won't blow you away); avoid the one near Hall's Mill Road like the plague.
In Biloxi, it's worth asking if the White Cap restaurant has returned. Their crabmeat Po Boys were a staple of beach trips when I was growing up. The restaurant washed away in Katrina, but I hear rumors that it reopened.
Dauphin Island (including Fort Gaines - a civil war fort) or Fairhope is probably your best bet for a day trip. Dauphin Island probably gets the edge because the beaches are so beautiful. Also, make sure you drive down Government Street through downtown. The ancient oak trees and the old houses are one of my favorite parts of Mobile. Have a great trip!
Posted by: Alex at Jul 5, 2009 6:12:46 PM
I recommend passing through Selma on the way to Biloxi. The trip over the Edmund Pettus bridge (where the famous march started) is worth the sidetrack.
Posted by: Kyle S at Jul 5, 2009 7:33:13 PM
Let me add my voice to those suggesting a trip to Fairhope. My freshman year of college I had an argument with a friend (almost certainly the commenter "Selfreferencing" above) who was from Fairhope over which of us came from a weirder town. I won the argument that night, but after I took a few trips with him down there, I was no longer sure I should have. The place was founded by Georgists and most of downtown is still owned by the Fairhope Single-Tax Corporation. Also, the monolith to George near the center of town is pretty amusing. I have not eaten at Panini Pete's (I blame this on Selfrefrencing), but I've never had a bad meal in that town, so I'm inclined to think it's excellent. And if you're there at night you might get lucky and catch a jubilee; I've never been that fortunate myself but still. Plus, you can stop by Foley to eat at Lambert's on the way to or from Mobile--excellent fried okra. And yeah, the Grand Hotel at Point Clear does look ridiculously awesome.
Dauphin Island is also pretty neat, but the coolest stuff is in the sea lab, which when I was last there wasn't open to the public. Still, Fort Gaines is moderately interesting, and there are some bizarre houses there even by beach standards.
Posted by: John W. Payne at Jul 5, 2009 7:49:13 PM
