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Advice for visiting a developing country
William, a loyal MR reader, asks:
What advice do you have for an aspiring development economist visiting a developing country for the first time?
He is a rising sophomore from a very good university and has strong interests in economics. The locale is Cape Town, although the question is about general advice. My tips are the following:
1. Learn as quickly as you can what is safe and what is not. In Brazil taxicabs are pretty safe, in Mexico City they are not. This will take some doing and in the meantime be very careful. Have a prearranged safety net if you lose everything to a thief.
2. Do not get drunk take drugs or patronize prostitutes. Really, It is a path to trouble and if you want to do it save it for a more familiar environment.
3. Try out the various transportation networks in the region, the more inconvenient the better.
4. Attend a religious ceremony or fiesta or both.
5. Make sure you visit some small farms.
6. Immerse yourself in the music of the place -- I don't mean the most commercial musics -- before you go and then of course after you arrive. This is more valuable and more "real" than reading the literature, which is often intended for outsiders. Of course read some non-fiction on the place as well.
7. See if you can teach or attend a class in a local school.
8. Eat the street food.
9. Do not rule out the idea of romance, keeping #2 in mind and noting that cross-cultural romantic signals are often misunderstood. This is a tricky one but it is the #1 teacher if it works out not to mention the romantic benefits.
10. Count the number of Indians and Chinese and Lebanese (and sometimes Koreans) around and draw inferences from that data.
11. If you can, arrive with a well-defined hypothesis in mind. But don't think you can collect all the data on one trip, you probably can't.
12. Realize that you probably won't understand all the times that people are telling you "no."
Learning the language goes without saying. I suspect Chris Blattman can add to this list, can you?
Addendum: Here are Chris's tips.
Posted by Tyler Cowen on June 2, 2008 at 06:19 AM in Travels | Permalink
Comments
Cook it, peel it or forget it. Personally, I would not eat street food in most countries. Forego the ice (even in strong drinks) and only drink from sealed containers. When shopping in local markets (it may or may not apply to bigger stores), assume the prices you're asked are way too high. If possible, take a local with you, they will know what prices are appropriate. On the other hand you may argue the prices are far lower than at home and haggling is not really your thing and just pay what's asked. Some find this to be a sort of development aid. Be wary of discussing politics and religion. Depends a lot on the culture in question, though. Carry sublingual (i.e. the type that can be used without water) diarrhea medication with you (in your wallet or some such) and have a broadband antibiotic in your suitcase.
Posted by: Someone from the otherside at Jun 2, 2008 7:08:33 AM
Maintain perspective about being a mark. Yes, people will try to rip you off, but think of it in absolute terms rather than in percentage terms. My wife and I almost ruined a trip to Peru by getting upset about a taxi driver overcharging us by 60%. The absolute price difference was only $2, however, and certainly not enough to get upset over.
With respect to personal safety, the best advice I've heard is from D. Keith Mano: If possible, be tall.
Posted by: MostlyAPragmatist at Jun 2, 2008 7:14:12 AM
I can't emphasize this one enough, though it's surprising how many people forget it: keep your opinions about the country, its lifestyle, culture, and folkways, to yourself. At least while you are there. What your mother told you is true: if you can't say something nice, don't say anything at all.
Chances are your hosts are not in a position to do much about the beggars, prostitutes, and stray dogs, so your offer of quick solutions to these problems ("Why don't they hire some dogcatchers around here?") is unlikely to impress them, and will only put them on the defensive.
Posted by: John S. at Jun 2, 2008 7:18:26 AM
About street food: watch how many locals eat it, then try it if it's popular.
They're not collapsing in the street from it, so it won't kill you, either.
Posted by: david at Jun 2, 2008 7:19:18 AM
Mention wanting to visit a neighboring country.
Posted by: Cisco at Jun 2, 2008 7:24:25 AM
I spent a year as a volunteer in Laos and would recommend:
- Being patient. Expect things to be slow or late. Prepare for this.
- Don't get angry. It may get you what you want but it's often extremely unpleasant to the locals and builds a bad reputation for tourists.
- Ask before taking a photo. If you can't speak the language just point at your camera and people will let you know if they're uncomfortable about it.
- Prepare for food poisoning and ask your doctor to recommend you some medicine to bring with you.
Posted by: Adrian at Jun 2, 2008 7:40:34 AM
Thanks for all the advice!
I'm not sure what exactly 12 is supposed to mean, though. Can you elaborate?
Posted by: WillJ at Jun 2, 2008 7:54:46 AM
Speaking from personal experience, you are much more likely to get in trouble doing (8) than (2)
Posted by: nocountry at Jun 2, 2008 8:07:53 AM
The line between (2) and (9) is not always very clear cut...
Posted by: Someone from the otherside at Jun 2, 2008 8:18:59 AM
I'd give the same advice Warren Buffett gives for open-outcry auctions. Don't go.
Otherwise, read everything before you go. Everything. No point in going if you don't know enough to know what you don't know (similar to #11.) Get to know your host really well beforehand. Don't put anything in your checked baggage that you wouldn't feel fine dropping off at the Goodwill on the way to the airport. Know the routes of the cabs you are taking- that way you can know the subtle distinction between a cabbie taking you the long way to extend the fare versus being kidnapped. Don't get that fountain drink (with or without ice) on the last day before your flight even if you feel pretty confident because you haven't had any problems all trip. Learn how the local payphones work.
Posted by: Andrew at Jun 2, 2008 8:25:47 AM
Avoid saying how rich you are, or saying anything about how good you live.. pepole will hate ya for that..
Posted by: Tomislav Najdovski at Jun 2, 2008 8:25:58 AM
WillJ--
There are many ways to say "no," without using the word "no". "Perhaps at some other time...", "That would be true if...", "Wouldn't you rather...", "That's interesting, but...", "Thank you for your kind offer...", "I understand, but..." and on and on.
Many non-Western culture's avoid using the word "no" in order to avoid conflict. This is certainly true in Thailand and Japan. Unfortunately, it makes it very hard for someone who doesn't speak the language to understand they've been told, "no". Instead of learning a single word "no," you need to understand the whole language and how it can shade meanings.
Posted by: MostlyAPragmatist at Jun 2, 2008 8:33:59 AM
Also note that you can easily spend weeks in Cape Town without realizing South Africa has poor areas! This is true of many middle-income countries. We tend to think only of the average incomes when comparing countries, when, in fact, there are many, many people in places like Argentina, Mexico and South Africa who live lifestyles that would seem normal to any American.
So mission one if you're interested in development: actually go to the poor part.
Posted by: kevincure at Jun 2, 2008 8:44:00 AM
Learn the language? Margaret Mead found it quite unnecessary.
Posted by: dearieme at Jun 2, 2008 9:01:20 AM
@Will, re 12:
A very interesting (german) blog explaining the U.S. to Germans once offered the following pieces of advice regarding discussion with Americans: "I wonder if this is really the best solution" tranlated “nein”. "I’m wondering if we might need more time" means “nein” and "We might want to review some parts of the project" means “nein”.
I think that illustrates the point: even though most Germans learn English for 6 to 9 years in school, it would never occur to most of them that someone would be that reluctant to say "no" when they mean "no". People in the countries you visit may have the same or even more reservations regarding saying "no" and significantly different ways to, err, paraphrase it.
Posted by: arne b at Jun 2, 2008 9:04:38 AM
- Read a local, daily paper if you can manage the language or if there is an English edition.
- Eat local bread everywhere you go - everyone makes better bread than the average American slice, mostly by virtue of being fresh.
- Ask lots of questions and listen far more than you talk - shoot for a 4 to 1 ratio.
- Where it is safe (Tyler's #1), walk. You can overcome a lot of barriers but speeding by at 40mph in a glass/steel box is a tough one.
- Read local/national bloggers. Try globalvoicesonline.org or, obviously, the goog.
- Browse book stores and news stands to see what people are selling/reading.
- When you visit small farms - ask what they are planting, what they are eating, where do they get their seeds, and who owns the land.
- Visit a clinic or hospital and talk to a nurse - doctor's are helpful but they probably fall into Tyler's #10
- Notice when and why the inevitably long lines form at the banks.
Posted by: J at Jun 2, 2008 9:28:58 AM
If you are in the capital city,
1. Take a look at how nice the central bank building is relative to its surroundings.
2. Note the queue (if any) at the American embassy/consulate of locals who want visas.
3. Spend one night at the theatre, even if you don't know the language.
Posted by: Economono at Jun 2, 2008 9:45:55 AM
As for safety and safety net, keep some money and any critical items separate from your main wallet/purse. Then if you get ripped off, you're still ok.
I don't understand #10
As for street food - this is not true "They're not collapsing in the street from it, so it won't kill you, either."
Remember that people have different sensitivities, and these are strongly conditioned by what we eat in our youth, along with genetics, and what our immune systems are exposed to.
People [used to] carry disease when they travel to new places, because we may all be immune to something here, but in another country they haven't been exposed. Obviously globalization and modern medicine has led to less death by new exposure; but we can still be highly sensitive to the food, preparation and - sorry - bugs that come with foods of another country.
While Tyler might be able to eat street foods wherever he goes, this does not mean everyone will have the same experience.
Posted by: liberty at Jun 2, 2008 10:13:05 AM
in the main, this advice also works well for getting to know a developed European country -- I've done a lot of the positive things quite rewardingly in Paris, for example.
Posted by: mae at Jun 2, 2008 10:17:40 AM
As a Capetonian (someone from Cape Town) reading this I find it immensely funny (I am an Econ grad student studying in Europe) even now when I tell people that English is the 'official' language of South Africa they are taken aback. Obviously if you want to learn Xhosa, Zulu or another South African language then it is beneficial if you plan to do development work. Afrikaans and Xhosa are particularly useful in Cape Town (aside 'I study Economics' roughly translates as 'Ndifunda ezoqoqosho' in Xhosa).
There are several 'local language' (English) newspapers to read: www.iol.co.za, www.news24.com and www.mg.co.za.
With respect to 2. Don't do it. Ever. Not in South Africa at least. I'd say #3 could also be problematic as there are numerous issues with public transport.
Lesser known SA fact: it has three capital cities (really). Cape Town is one of these as the seat of parliament and you are free to visit parliament if you so choose as a member of the public.
With respect to Economics in South Africa and connecting to it in Cape Town, the three most prominent schools are The University of Cape Town, the University of Stellenbosch and the University of the Western Cape. The former two substantially better ranked (1st and 2nd in the country respectively, depending on who is rating).
Posted by: Simon Halliday at Jun 2, 2008 10:29:26 AM
Feel free to get tipsy. Avoid at all costs becoming incoherently drunk. Prostitutes, if you are willing the disease risk, are generally safe if you arrange them through your hotel, or tour guide. These people make a good portion of their income from setting up these dalliances. Also, while taxis in Mexico City may not be safe, this is not the case for Mexico's mot beautiful city, Guadalajara.
Posted by: Mdesus at Jun 2, 2008 10:59:13 AM
Above all, take advice from someone who has _been_ there or lives there, rather than someone who has read about it in story books. :-)
Generally good counsel for first-time visitors to any tropical country:
1. Do not drink tap water. That is the fastest route to a stomach upset. Best carry water with you in a bottled form, when leaving hotel etc so as not to be caught in a state of desperate thirst.
2. Do not take ice in any drink, or for that matter, on its own.
3. Do not eat street food or pre-cut fruit/ vegetables (say, in a salad). You cannot guarantee freshness, things spoil rapidly in the heat and a diarrhoea is going to waste your precious travel and research time.
4. If going in hot weather, pack sunscreen and mosquito repellent cream/ device. Malaria tablets too, if available.
Apart from that, no generalisations actually work. Remaining polite, asking permission and not getting into fights with locals usually work universally.
Good Luck!
Posted by: Shefaly at Jun 2, 2008 11:15:16 AM
Carry some small gifts for children of people you meet. Nothing too fancy -- you don't want to seem patronizingly affluent, nor do you want to create situations of jealousy or fighting over things. One of those things where you pull the string and it makes different animal noises, or a Transformers figure for slightly older kids, that kind of thing.
Of course gift customs vary widely so you need to find out first what is appropriate. (But that is just necessary in any case -- you can end up in just as bad trouble for failing to give something when you should.)
Posted by: Christopher M at Jun 2, 2008 12:06:46 PM
I spent a semester in Cape Town. Definitely be sure to meet locals who can show you the "developing" part of SA. It is very easy to enjoy the first world life in Cape Town and never see the impoverished areas.
You should visit the townships, but not without a local friend or guide. If you are white, you will be an obvious target for crime there. There are commercial tours, but you will not get the same experience as visiting with a resident or someone who has friends and family there.
From an economic perspective, the minibus taxi industry fascinated me. These are the ubiquitous vans filled far past capacity that travel established routes and cost next to nothing. In anticipation of the World Cup, the government is attempting to clamp down on the safety and operation of the minibuses, which is how most of the lower class travels.
Posted by: CFS at Jun 2, 2008 12:08:10 PM
My best advise is to live as similar as you can to the locals. Have an open mind, forget about your domestic lifestyle, and try to assimilate yourself into their culture for as long as you are there. Eat what they eat, listen to what they listen, celebrate what they celebrate (and in the same manner). Take every opportunity to talk with the locals, assuming language barriers are not high. It has been my experience abroad (most extensively in Russia, and most recently in Indonesia) that people are open to talk about their life in general terms and thoughts about the future. Lots of times they are as curious about your thoughts as you are theirs. Try to makes friends that will let you "hang out" with them and their friends. Finally, know the history of the country. It is fascinating to "see" how their history has influenced their culture and perspective for the future. If you show that you took the time to learn about the county and the people, then they will open up much more to you.
Posted by: TK at Jun 2, 2008 12:16:36 PM
"Do not...patronise prostitutes" is good advice; instead treat them as equals with whom you are engaging in a market based exchange...
Posted by: tadhgin at Jun 2, 2008 12:17:32 PM
I've yet to be disappointed with staying in a lower end hotel. I can't always say that about pricey ones.
Visit fresh vegetable/meat/fish markets and watch.
Ask where you can buy old stuff. When you get there ask where you can buy old stuff.
Bargain hard. You'll learn something and get to know people.
Over tip. Support the local economy. "Drop helicopter money."
Take plenty of pens for school children.
Visit one room schools. Everyone wants to practice their English.
Posted by: John B. Chilton at Jun 2, 2008 12:56:13 PM
For anyone interested in visiting a township outside Cape Town, I had a very nice experience in Langa at this place.
Posted by: Will Wilkinson at Jun 2, 2008 12:59:50 PM
1) Beware the jaded development worker and ex-pats. Take their stories with a grain of salt.
2) Concerning RSA, remember that apartheid fell only 14 years ago. Be prepared for differences ... and the oh-so-awkward moments when race comes up on conversation.
3) Always have toilet paper in your pocket. Trust me. I can't tell you how many orphaned socks i have.
4) if you're riding local transport and depending on the terrain (i.e. if you're prone to motion sickness), you may need to bring a bag just in case.
5) Concerning local transport ... they usually do not stop for bathroom breaks. Go when you can.
6) When getting directions, ask more than one person.
7) It's not cool to look like a slob. Dress professionally.
8) If you are American, don't be embarrassed about it. I got so sick of people being all embarassed about W and saying "I'm canadian."
9) And be careful about political and religious conversations with people you don't know. Just keep a good head on your shoulders when those subjects come up.
10) Learn how to take a "fake photograph" if you have a film camera.
11) If hiking remotely, be smart. Oh, and bring smokes ... offering one up to curious herders can get you quickly in their good graces.
12) Have fun. Cape Town is really modern and one of the most beautiful cities I've been to (but do get out to the rural areas). Just watch your back, but don't be paranoid.
I have tons more. Cheers
Posted by: Ben at Jun 2, 2008 1:04:09 PM
On cross cultural romantic signals I have a funny story. I had been in Peru for several months when I ran into a Peruvian friend of mine. He was with a beautiful girl and I tried to signal my approval of his companion without her seeing it. I made the OK sign with my hand, but kept it below the waste where I thought she wouldn't see. She did see, however, and both he and she gasped (these were Mormon kids). I instantly knew what my mistake was. That particular hand gesture, made below the waste, has a strongly sexual connotation, which I knew, but in a moment of forgetfulness used it with the completely innocent North American meaning in mind. Unfortunately, I didn't recover all that well.
Posted by: Paul at Jun 2, 2008 1:17:02 PM
Real story: I was a part of a government delegation who visited Morocco a month ago. A few hours after arriving in Rabat, a colleague of mine ate a meat sandwich from a street vendor in the busy central market of the city. Nothing happened to her. Two days later, we all went to a fancy reception at the house of an ambassador. The next morning, I was so sick I couldn't get out of bed and lost a very important meeting.
So I guess point (8) is not that far-fetched...
Posted by: Diogo at Jun 2, 2008 2:55:05 PM
Visit small farms?
Do you really want to have to check that on the customs form when you come back into the US?
Posted by: Chris at Jun 2, 2008 3:27:02 PM
You have included some really good information here. You need to be aware of what is safe when you go to a new Town and be aware of the fact that many people are out to grab your money espescially taxi drivers. You can learn about the Country on the internet before you go. Staying soba is good advice, but if you are somewhere safe you may want a drink on holiday. Some great advice though.
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freewebs/tippits.com
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Posted by: Melissa at Jun 2, 2008 4:30:25 PM
Walking is definitely the way to get the feel of a city. I suggest plotting a route that more or less bisects it, once you are clear what areas are not safe. Get an idea beforehand of what sights you want to see. Most will usually be downtown so you get there midday. But do your best to walk in a straight line as far as you can - or just walk in the general direction of downtown. This will pass you through all kinds of neighborhoods and you can see fascinating things.
From a development perspective, I think some interesting questions are: how do people get housing? Where do people work, and how do they get there? How do people get land? And yes, how does agriculture work?
I have one more suggestion but I will have to blog it...
Posted by: Timothy at Jun 2, 2008 4:46:00 PM
Like one of the other commenters, I thoroughly enjoyed reading through this post and seeing some of the impressions of South Africa.
South Africa is full of contrasts, and Cape Town has most of them. In the right places, Cape Town is as first world as you get.
I agree with the suggestion to not offer suggestions to how to solve the countries problems. Listen, ask, and get involved but be careful not to shove solutions down our throats. The reason many choose to call themselves Canadian is a bit of a prejudice against `American Arrogance'.
In the same way as many people see Africa as a country, lots of us don't see America as a continent (as we should) and that every American is an individual.
Some hints
1) Tap water in Cape Town is awesome (judge by the quality of the tap ;-) ). I still find the idea of bottled water in SA's major cities very funny.
2) I studied at the University of Cape Town (UCT). Like other universities, you can just rock up on the campus and wander into lectures if you fancy. Hang out on `Jammie Steps' and you might just sort out that romance suggestion.
3) You'll get by with English. Learning a few greetings etc. in the other languages will be handy just to bring smiles to peoples faces.
It is a friendly country... enjoy.
Posted by: Trevor at Jun 2, 2008 4:55:16 PM
Ask and ye shall receive.
Am I really this easy?
Posted by: Chris Blattman at Jun 2, 2008 5:48:46 PM
About romance... when you're young you learn languages in your baby crib, when older, you learn them in your bed.
Posted by: Mr. Chaps at Jun 2, 2008 5:58:57 PM
You are more vulnerable to a scam when you're tired, jet-lagged, hungry or lonely/horny. Get some sleep after changing time zones even if it means taking a sleeping pill.
Posted by: Brian at Jun 2, 2008 6:12:05 PM
A neat trick I discovered in Ecuador - if you have an iPod, bring it. It was a great ice-breaker/bonder with the under-30 crowd. They know what an iPod is, though may not have played with one before. They also tend to be very curious about American music...which made me feel a bit self-conscious, since my tastes are *very* atypical, and my Spanish wasn't good enough to be sure I got that point across. On the other hand, it did make for a great social lubricant and instant bonding.
If you don't want to trust that the person you are talking to won't run off with it, keep the iPod in your hand, but give them the ear buds:)
Posted by: EnlightenedDuck at Jun 2, 2008 9:45:56 PM
Dearieme
And thats why she was victim of the hoax developed by a 13 yo girl
Posted by: k at Jun 2, 2008 10:38:23 PM
Instead of Ben's #3, learn how to use the toilet the "local" way. Carrying around TP is annoying, you'll eventually forget, and once you figure it out washing with water (the preferred method in all the developing countries I've been to) actually feels cleaner. Don't know what I'm going to do when I go back to the States.
In regards to #9, I think this deserves many more caveats than have been given. At least where I am (SE Asia) I have observed numerous white guy-local woman relationships and only a handful weren't at the core exploitative. Dating a white guy is considered by a considerable subset of society to be prestigious and there's also the inevitable money issue where even drifter English teachers make several times what college-educated young locals make. So every white guy has tons of local women throwing themselves at him, and they have their pick. They tend to form "real" boyfriend-girlfriend relationships but at the core is a not-so-subtle exchange of sex and hotness (these guys would never have such hot women at home) for spending power. The guy can always get another girl in an instant if the first acts up. It's not prostitution, but in practice the line is disturbingly blurry. I've seen so many relationships like this and so few that seem to be truly genuine that I'm quite cynical about the whole endeavor.
Posted by: Angela at Jun 2, 2008 11:14:45 PM
If you are American, don't be embarrassed about it. I got so sick of people being all embarassed about W and saying "I'm canadian."
Agreed. First, most people in developing countries, whatever they think of the U.S. government, tend to have a neutral or positive attitude toward individual Americans. Second, if you visit a country with lots of immigrants in the U.S., you might very well meet someone with a friend or relative who lives near your hometown or went to your college, creating an instant bonding opportunity. Finally, if you are a cultural snob, you should be prepared to meet locals who know more about American pop culture than you do, especially if you are in a country where English is widely spoken.
Angela, where is it not the case that men with more status, prestige and money (whether deserved or not) tend to have more women interested in them?
Posted by: Mark at Jun 3, 2008 12:42:42 AM
Angela,
Imagine if the roles were reversed and a man was complaining that women had too much spending money, too much sexual freedom, and too much freedom of choice in general... a bit of a Sex and the City double standard on your part, don't you think?
Another problem for you perhaps is that SE Asian women tend to have a naturally slight build, and age less visibly. So Western women obsessed with body image, weight, aging skin, etc. feel a little more threatened somehow, unnecessarily so.
Anyways, why not loosen up, let go of the jealousy, and find yourself some local guy to "exploit"?
Posted by: at Jun 3, 2008 12:56:56 AM
13) Contact local MR readers ;)
Posted by: Deane at Jun 3, 2008 2:08:56 AM
If you're visiting a new area, meet with the local traditional authorities. I don't know how this works in SA (as I've never been there), but this has been immensely helpful here in Malawi. The village headmen know everybody for miles and miles around, and can point you in the right direction if you're looking for answers to specific questions. They'll have the answers to a lot of your questions themselves as well. Also (again, here in Malawi at least) meeting with the village headman is really the cordial thing to do if you're going to be spending more than a day in the area. It will put you in the good graces of an influential person, and if you get into a spot of trouble, you might be glad that you've acquainted yourself with the traditional authorities; it will give you a tad more legitimacy yourself.
Find someone who knows the chief/headman/whoever fairly well and have that person with you when you go, to give a formal introduction. This is extremely preferable to just showing up at the headman's home and saying Howdy Doody.
Posted by: John at Jun 3, 2008 3:57:53 AM
Lots of excellent advice here.
Two I don't believe have been said:
1) Keep some cigarettes on you. They're excellent social lubricants. Don't be a prude about smoking. (Whatever you're inhaling in the capital city's pollution is probably worse for your lungs.)
2) Have photos of your spouse/kids/parents/siblings/dog. Share them with acquaintances as you get to know people (of course when it feels appropriate). You'll be amazed at how much it bonds you to people when you talk fondly about your kin; in many societies this is much more important than defending your government's actions. You're a representative of your bloodline more than of your nation.
Posted by: Karina at Jun 3, 2008 6:11:32 AM
On 8, the rule I learnt was "Eat the street food if it's freshly cooked and you can see them cooking it. If you can't eat the street food, eat packaged food (fruit or artificial packaging) or eat at McDonalds. If you can't follow those rules, then at least don't order any exotic dishes. "
The two cases of food poisoning I've ever had were not from eating street food. I think what's happening is that foreign bugs are about as likely in a restaurant as at a street stall, but are far more likely to breed in food that's been sitting around for a while, which in turn is far more likely to happen in a kitchen with a bit more space than a street stall.
Posted by: Tracy W at Jun 3, 2008 11:39:57 AM
This is hilarious - given that I'm from Cape Town, and just today I was discussing why the hell people trawl around the unsafe areas in Cape Town like they own the place. The most important piece of advice is to look like you fit in, and like you know what you're doing.
Cape Town (relative to the places I've visited in the US) is not safe - Detroit & SE DC were meant to be bad, and many areas in Cape Town are worse. Tourist destinations tend to be safer than many areas the locals inhabit, but this does not mean you should stick to the sanitised parts of Cape Town, it just helps to know locals familiar with areas you're interested in, and visit in groups. Making friends with these locals can be harder than you think, and here, longer stays help.
Avoid making yourself a target. Don't walk around with a camera around your neck - I am frequently amazed at the number of tourists I spot in the city doing just this. Do not get drunk! If you don't look like you fit in, chances are you don't sound like you fit in, and if you land up in trouble the odds are higher than anywhere else that it's going to be hard to identify anyone to help. Relative to the level of crime in Cape Town, there are not that many (visible) police.
Cape Town is beautiful, it is varied, it is a very interesting place to witness the effects of spatial segregation under Apartheid. Not unlike Paris, the further you get from the centre, the darker the people become. And this has particularly important economic ramifications, given the high levels of inequality and poverty in the city.
I've always thought that travel is motivated by a horde of different reasons, and I think some idea of the historical context is more important than basic phrases in the local language. The quality of interaction you have is better if you're curious, and can indicate your genuine interest by avoiding complete ignorance, or presuming you know it all.
When I visited the US, I travelled alone to Chicago, DC & NYC, and it was my intention to talk to as many people as possible. Speak to different people. In the US I loved the cab drivers - they had so much of interest to say. In Cape Town I'd recommend you talk to as broad a variety of people as possible, try car guards, kids and old people!
PS. We have the amidst the best water quality in the world. But not a lot of it...so minimise the shower time :)
Posted by: Catherine Kannemeyer at Jun 3, 2008 3:54:23 PM
Regarding language, the point that Margaret Mead was seriously hoaxed is dead on.
However, for most people, unless they are going for an extended period with a long
period for preparation, telling them to "learn the language" is not very useful,
although, of course, doing so is always excellent.
More practical in most cases is to make an effort to learn at least some phrases
and to take a phrase book or dictionary with one. Among the most useful are "please"
and "thank you" and "hello" and "goodbye" and "where is the toilet" and "how much does
this cost" and "a menu please," and, that especially important one/two, "excuse me" and
"I am very sorry."
Posted by: Barkley Rosser at Jun 3, 2008 6:31:38 PM
If said student wants advice and connections to Cape Town, they should feel free to email me. I'm an Econ grad student and studied my Masters in Econ in Cape Town. Always good to offer reciprocal services to the writers of such an interesting blog (or at least to their students).
Posted by: Simon Halliday at Jun 4, 2008 7:15:18 AM
Well, all the advice depends on what part of the world your "developing country" is located.
My experience from traveling in China and Southeast Asia:
1 Avoid tourist areas. The experience is almost always artificial, and rip-offs are far more common than elsewhere.
2 Eat street food. Asian food is generally safe, tasty and often the choice is between paying Western prices for Western meals or paying almost nothing for great food. Crowds of local patrons is a good sign.
3 Taxis are cheap and generally reliable (except for language problems)
4 Practice squatting over toilets. Bring paper.
5 Don't drink tap water.
6 Eat everything.
7 Walk through unfamiliar areas (I practice a sort of "vague directionality with random deviations")
8 Above all, look as if you live in the place and know where you're going: no cameras, shorts or sunglasses! Be tall and confident. The combination short-sleeved shirt, jeans, sneakers and a briefcase is my preferred choice in hot weather.
9 Carry money in your pockets, and leave the rest in your hotel safe.
10 Spend money on food and drinks. Don't buy actual "things" unless you would buy them at home.
Posted by: David at Jun 5, 2008 12:28:54 AM
Thanks to everyone (including Chris Blattman) for the great advice.
Seems like there's a bit of a debate on whether or not to eat street food. I guess I'm more convinced by the pro- street food people, especially with Tracy's reasoning that street food is safer due to more turnover.
EnlightenedDuck, I'm not sure I should bring my iPod to Cape Town, as I'd expect it to get stolen. In fact, my program's directors specifically said not to bring them. But still an interesting idea (using it as an ice breaker) that I might use in less crime-ridden foreign areas.
Posted by: WillJ at Jun 6, 2008 1:49:05 AM
I live in Cape Town and have also traveled extensively. South Africa is a nation where wealth (classy infrastructure) and poverty (underdevelopment) co-exist (albeit in an often mutually exclusive nature) - a condition understandable due to the country's past. Not surprisingly, foreigners often cast big South African cities into the the same mold as other developing nations (like Brazil), which isn't a terribly useful mental model for a traveler. My comments on Cowen's points below, with respect to major South African cities:
1) True, but I recommend doing this groundwork before arriving here. Learning "the hard way" might cost you more than you bargained for. So make some South African friends on Facebook, and talk to them before getting here.
2) Apply your judgment. Stay out of bad areas (you hopefully wouldn't wander into them anyway), but do as you please in richer parts of the city. South Africans are very tolerant, although men do enjoy the odd fistfight (Capetonians are notoriously docile, mind you).
3) No. The more uncomfortable forms of transport here will probably leave you feeling bitter and frustrated, not enlightened. Stick to cheap taxis (no metro, sorry).
4) Who's? It's impossible to pin down any homogeneous South African culture, as several ethnicities with different cultures and religions co-exist simultaneously. Not all South Africans are black (but we are all still Africans). Rather try to get to a barbecue. South African's call this a "braai", and it is pervasive across all cultures :-)
5) I wouldn't bother. But maybe that's because I've seen small local farms before.
6) Refer to point (4). OK, there are some local music styles- "Kwaito" is pretty well known. But you will find international music at 95% of the parties you end up at.
7) Again, I refer to the divide between the privileged and underprivileged. Try to see both, and formulate your own opinion. (A friend of mine from Chicago recently visited Cape Town on an international medical scholarship, and was positively aghast at the disparity between public and private hospitals. It almost made her ill.)
8) Agreed!
9) Enthusiastically agreed!
10) Stop right there. Indians are a NATIVE ethnic population in South Africa- my own ancestors all trace back to India, yet I am many generations South African. So be careful when deciding who is an immigrant and who isn't. The numbers of Chinese here are high!
11) Most people's hypothesis of South Africa are shattered upon arrival, but good luck. It helps massively if you have a local friend to abuse as a guide.
12) Don't worry, Western culture persists here, too.
--
Just my honest thoughts; I hope that they help inform your next trip to South Africa. Lekker bru!
Posted by: Sheraan Amod at Jun 6, 2008 10:23:59 AM
Howzit William! Don't stress about the iPod. Bring it. Just don't whip it out and start changing tracks while you walk down quiet (or busy!) streets in town at 1am, ok?
I'm a recent graduate of the University of Cape Town and also a Masters student at Stellenbosch University. I flip-flop between the two places at present :)
Shoot me an email or find me Facebook if you'd like to connect. I'd love to show you around a bit when you get down here.
(From my closing words in the last comment, and opening one now, you've already learned three bona-fide South African words!)
Posted by: Sheraan Amod at Jun 6, 2008 10:30:24 AM
Uh, skip the farms?
Only if you don't drink wine! There are some fantastic small wine farms close to Cape Town, in beautiful settings. DO NOT SKIP THE WINE FARMS!
If you want to catch a ride on a local taxi, mail me, I find it a very authentic experience of the life representative South Africans endure. I have had some of my most entertaining experiences on local taxis, but they're tough to navigate, and you need to know how to avoid being ripped off. Taxis between UCT and Claremont are easy and safe to take during the day. I also used to catch the Lavender Hill taxi every now and again when I was younger - a very different experience to taking the Rondebosch-Claremont route. Lavender Hill and Mannenberg are both similarly impoverished areas.
Posted by: Catherine Kannemeyer at Jun 8, 2008 10:11:16 AM
Avoid ice cubes in drinks. In Antigua, I once went to a bar outside my hotel and had a couple of drinks with ice, and the next day I had diarrhea. My hotel, however, was super-careful. They provided pitchers of bottled water in each room for drinking and brushing one's teeth. Yes, you can get sick from brushing with tap water!
Posted by: Kay at Jun 8, 2008 12:30:16 PM
