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Puebla bleg
I'll be there for Christmas, with Yana and Natasha, please help me improve the quality of our experience. You all know how fond I am of Mexico, and you can leave your suggestions in the comments...
Posted by Tyler Cowen on December 16, 2007 at 03:31 PM in Travels | Permalink
Comments
T: check out the amazing murals at Cacaxtla off the Mexico - Puebla Highway
http://www.delange.org/Cacaxtla/Cacaxtla.htm
also there are several amazing "folk baroque" churches within easy driving of the City of Puebla. Incredible interior carvings mixing indigenous with catholic symbols, awesome colors and style.
http://www.colonial-mexico.com/PueblaTlaxcala/atlixco.html
they are really better on the inside than the outside.
Posted by: angus at Dec 16, 2007 3:47:53 PM
Hello Tyler,
I'll also be in Mexico this Christmas and I'm very fond of Mexico as well. Do you have any recommended blogs from Mexico that cover Mexico's Economics, politics, art, literature, etc. Thank you and hope you have a wonderful trip.
Posted by: Sergio at Dec 16, 2007 4:16:28 PM
Make sure you try manchamantel while at Puebla. Also make sure you try pipian.
Posted by: U at Dec 16, 2007 4:32:06 PM
It's definitely worth visiting the nearby town of Cholula, with an early colonial-era church on top of a pyramid (the world's largest by volume) that was long thought to be a natural hill.
Posted by: Josh at Dec 16, 2007 6:01:38 PM
Tyler,
Here go some suggestions from a loyal Mexican MR fan:
1. Spend a morning at the Museo Amparo, probably the second best private museum in the country (after the Franz Mayer museum in Mexico City) and the holder of a superb and eclectic collection of prehispanic, colonial, and modern art.
2. Do not miss the Capilla del Rosario in the Church of Santo Domingo. It is one of the most awe-inspiring examples of Mexican baroque and, believe me, it will truly take your breath away.
3. I agree on the Cacaxtla suggestion made by angus, but go there as part of a day trip to Tlaxcala, a truly lovely colonial town that a) was, during precolonial times, a ferociously independent city-state that succesfully resisted Aztec domination and went on to become the key ally of Hernan Cortes during the conquest; and, b) is bypassed by most tourists. As part of the Tlaxcalan excursion, you can go to the church of Ocotlan, a magnificent exmple of the 18th century churrigueresco style. If time allows,you can also try visiting one the many former pulque-producing haciendas in the region.
4. Where to find good mole in Puebla is a source of major controversy among both locals and visitors, but I will venture a couple of suggestions: Fonda La Mexicana and La Bola Roja. Avoid the Fonda Santa Clara: it is a radically overpriced tourist trap.
5. Time allowing, you should consider a trip up the mountains to Cuetzalan. It is a misty, nahuatl-speaking town with winding streets and,among other rarities, one of the few gothic churches in Mexico. Cuetzalan is a two-three hour drive from Puebla through a two-lane mountain road in less than perfet state, but the town is well worth the ordeal, particularly if you happen to go on market day.
6. Regarding Sergio's queries about Mexican blogs, I can rather immodestly suggest visiting my own: www.mexicolibertad.com. I have there a bunch of links to good blogs on Mexican political and economic affairs.
7. Have great fun in Mexico. Hope you come early enough to attend a posada (i.e., before December 24th).
Best regards from south of the border.
Posted by: Alejandro Hope at Dec 16, 2007 6:34:31 PM
Hi T: yes Ocotlan is fantastic. a great idea. way to go Alejandro
Posted by: angus at Dec 16, 2007 6:48:33 PM
Try Puerto Escondido and surrounding areas.
Fresh oysters. Nice beaches. Few Americans. Very inexpensive.
http://www.tomzap.com/escondio.html
Actually the beaches to the slight east of it are even better...
Posted by: Robert at Dec 16, 2007 6:55:11 PM
go to the place they filmed predator!
Posted by: ericdmcfadden at Dec 16, 2007 7:44:01 PM
The Biblioteca Palafoxiana, a huge library. Very cool.
Posted by: Jon Kaya at Dec 17, 2007 12:55:22 AM
Tyler -Alejandro's suggestions are very good. - a real gem of Puebla is the Amparo Museum. There are some nice traditional restaurants in Tlaxcala. Also you should go to the museum of the revolution at Fort Guadalupe (which is where Cinco de Mayo is chronicled). Finally, I would add the Convent of Santa Monica. During the Chirstero period a group of nuns lived in seclusion and secrecy for about 20 years. I would also add the archeological sites at Cacaxtla and Tlaxcala. Both have some things that are not common in other sites - they are on the road to Puebla from Mexico City. While in the Museum you should also check out the music of the Mexican Baroque period - the National Arts Director - who is a friend has recorded a number of albums of Mexican Baroque music on period instruments. It is wonderful. Remember that most Mexican towns celebrate Three Kings Day (January 6) as almost a more important holiday than Christmas.
Also, while I like Puerto Escondido - it is not very close to Puebla.
Posted by: drtaxsacto at Dec 17, 2007 1:08:07 AM
Cholula is definately a must go. A 2-hour car drive will take you to Teotihuacan, with amazing pyramids. I had a very well made 'Mole Poblano', but unfortunately i forgot the name of the restaurant.
Enjoy!
Posted by: Lucas at Dec 17, 2007 7:01:00 AM
The best meal (by far) I've had in Puebla was at Meson Sacristia de la Compania, in the Centro Historico
Posted by: r at Dec 17, 2007 10:22:31 AM
I also found the Puerto Escondido comment somewhat odd for at least two reasons:
1) Puerto Escondido is about 10 hours away from Puebla by car. On a limited time budget, you would have to go to Mexico City and take a flight. Considering the horrendous traffic you would find entering the capital from Puebla, the whole journey would still take about four to five hours at least.
2) If someone is going for Christmas to a colonial town in the Mexican highlands, I think it is a rather safe assumption that that person is not looking for a beach vacation.
Finally, a couple of additional cultural tidbits for Tyler:
1) There are a number of good literary depictions of Puebla. Just out of the top of my mind, I would recommend "Tear This Heart Out", a novel by Angeles Mastretta, and the chapters devoted to the two battles of Puebla during the War of French Intervention in Fernando del Paso's "Noticias del Imperio" (I don't think there is an English translation of that novel).
2)For local news and information on cultural events in Puebla, check out this page: http://www.poblanerias.com.
Again, best regards from south of the border.
Posted by: Alejandro Hope at Dec 17, 2007 11:00:59 AM
Our favorite restaurant was Mi Ciudad.
Also visit the church/chapels at:
--Capilla del Rosario
--Santa Maria Tonantzintla
Posted by: Brian at Dec 17, 2007 2:37:16 PM
Tyler: Would you be spending any time in Mexico City? In the city center is the newly opened Museum of Economics (MIDE: Museo Interactivo de Economia). It is a superb place, and has won numerous awards since it opened last year. Highly, highly recommended.
Posted by: Linkt at Dec 17, 2007 5:57:22 PM
A very good place for Mexican breakfasts is "Los Almuerzos" in the Avenida Juan Pablo II, Colonia La Noria (for the taxi driver, if he doesn't know it, close to Superama and Sam's) - but you make a reservation if you can, it's pretty crowded.
A very nice & small bar in a bookshop close (5 minutes) to the Zocalo is El Teorema - they used to have frequently live music, only too loud from time to time.
Also interesting, situated a few meters away from the cathedral is La Matraca - a bar/restaurant in an old courtyard. Maybe better for a drink than for food.
Personally, I am fond of the market at Analco on Sundays - if you stand with you back to main entrance of the cathedral, facing the Zocalo, you just turn right and cross the large Boulevard 5 de Mayo. There you can see a lot of nice, useless stuff!
Apart from that, I agree that you should definitely go to see San Andres Cholula and the Tonantzintlan church.
Try out tamales, they are one of my favourite dishes - I prefer the Jarochos (with chicken and red salsa cooked in a banana leaf).
Posted by: Thorsten at Dec 17, 2007 6:16:16 PM
FWIW, the most interesting (in a good way) hotel I've ever stayed in was in a converted 17th century monastery just off of the zocalo in Puebla. Alas, I can't remember the name, though.
Posted by: Scott Wood at Dec 18, 2007 9:51:53 AM
Tyler:
Christmas in Puebla could be so interesting because is a cultural city .
Places to visit (among the great recomendations above) are:
1.-Zocalo de la Ciudad (like main platz in downtown)
2.-Puebla´s Cathedral (one of the biggest in Latin America)
3.-Plazuela de los Sapos & Barrio del Artista ( flea market, hand made suveniers & portrait artist working on site)
4.-Walk by historical area of the city or take the turistic bus tour at Zocalo
5.-Visit La Pasita, one of the famous cantinas in town, an historical place where they offer sweet liquiour drinks
all those places could be seing in the same day, they are really close and all at downtown.
Other two recommendations:
6.- Fuertes de Loreto (military forts famous because of the may 5 battle)
7.- The Cuexcomate Volcano (the smallest volcano without activity of the world is inside Puebla with just 13 meters ! You can find it at 3 poniente and 4 north at colonia la Libertad.
Have fun !
Posted by: Juan Carlos Bello at Dec 18, 2007 2:57:58 PM
The "Hotel Colonial" is located in downtown Puebla, that is the one that was a monastery and then transformed into a hotel. It is a must; you can go to the top of the hotel and appreciate the view of the city at night. And when you walk inside it, you can feel transported to the 17th century. The food there is also good. In general, food from Puebla has one of the best reputations in Mexico. There is also an inexpensive restaurant where you can go and mingle with the "poblanos" while you have a healthy breakfast, it's called "La Zanahoria", it's in the back of the Cathedral (I believe it is 3 Sur street). There are wonderful stories about the Cathedral, you should have a tour guide tell you some of them. And don't forget to try the "chalupas". Those are the very typical "antojitos" (snacks) that are sold at night and that are very typical to Puebla. Like someone said before, try to attend a real Posada if you get a chance. It's part of the tradition. Best wishes!!!
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