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How to cook with Indian spices

My New Year's resolution is to learn more about real Chinese cooking; I have been studying Eileen Yen-Fei Lo's The Chinese Kitchen.  But in the meantime, here are hundreds of Indian recipes in a short, convenient page... 

Buy whole spices, not ground.  Get:

Cinnamon stick (not the Mexican kind)
Cumin
Coriander
Cloves
Cardamom, preferably both green and black
Black peppercorns

Red chilis, or red chili powder
Wet ginger paste (go to an Indian grocer's), or fresh ginger, never ever ever powdered ginger
Garam masala, here a good powder from an Indian mart is OK though better to make it fresh
Turmeric, powder will do

For bases, draw upon:

1. Sauteed and pureed yellow onions
2. Plain yogurt, some will wish to add heavy cream as a thickener
3. Coconut milk

Now start your dish.  Create the chosen base.  Ghee (clarified butter) can be added to #1 or #2 for yummy richness but I usually don't for health reasons.  Don't mix #2 and #3.

Then take your preferred mix of spices.  Fry the hard ones for two to three minutes over medium heat (3.5 on an electric stove) and puree them.  Cinnamon stick should be left whole in the sauce to leach out its flavor.  Never are more than three cloves needed and they can be left whole too.  Cardamoms can be inserted whole and then removed, especially if large ones are smashed open a bit with a blunt edge.  Otherwise experiment with preferred combinations.

In a separate pan, quickly cook your preferred meat over high heat, just enough to make it a bit translucent or pink.  Insert the partially cooked stuff into the liquid base and turn to low heat until the dish is ready.

Vegetables can be substituted for meat.

You can introduce mace and mustard seeds, or tomato can be a base in sauces.

You now have a combinatorial knowledge of many many Indian recipes and you need not memorize anything.

By the way, if you must buy powdered curry, Golden Bell is by far the best.  It is packed with bay leaves and stays potent for months.  You can sautee some chopped yellow onions, toss in ground lamb, douse it in Golden Bell, cook over low heat until dry, and when on the plate, over rice, coat it in plain yogurt.

Posted by Tyler Cowen on January 1, 2007 at 08:00 AM in Food and Drink | Permalink

Comments

You can also marinade the meat in the ground spices and yougurt mix for an hour before cooking it. Fresh mint and Cilantro are excellent garnishes.

Posted by: triya at Jan 1, 2007 8:36:34 AM

Which kind of Indian recipe you want? There are many many regional recipes as you go from State to State, from one coastal area to another, from one hinterland to another one etc.The southern most state of Kerala is the "spice garden" of the country growing numerous spices including pepper,clove,cinnamon elaichi, (also tea & coffee )etc in the State's evergreen highrange gardens and forests and one can eat as many type of spicy fish delicacies (sea fish, backwater fish, river fish and pond fish, all varieties, but sea fish and backwater fish are the real local speciality dishes) as he or she wants.Ohhhhhh..It is so fantastic..

Posted by: GVV at Jan 1, 2007 8:57:35 AM

Why never ever ever powdered ginger? I thought that sometimes it's called for specifically, but not used as a substitute for ginger root.

Is it difficult to make Indian breads at home? How is the frozen naan from an Indina grocer or Trader Joe's?

Posted by: Nathan at Jan 1, 2007 9:27:43 AM

_The Best Recipes in the World_ by Mark Bittman has a good recipe for naan that you can make in a regular home oven.

Posted by: Jacqueline at Jan 1, 2007 9:32:26 AM

"Why never ever ever powdered ginger?" - My one contribution to Tyler's excellent list of recommendations is to *always keep a piece of ginger root in the freezer*. When frozen, it is really easy to grate into any dish. The smell alone makes it worth using whole as opposed to powder - and the cook's experience has to count for something: the most enjoyable meals to cook are those you will cook again.

Posted by: tom s. at Jan 1, 2007 10:31:20 AM

Nathan,

It is not difficult to make bread at home. A quick Google search Naan Recipes reveals a lot. However, note that yeast has to rise in the dough and that a grill is much suited for heating as opposed to oven or stove top heating. I suggest that you can buy frozen packets of naan from indian grocery stores and make the base dish as suggested above. Then add vegetables of choice and make your Indian side-dish.

Tyler, white onions are good too. As are Spanish Onions with a whitish, caramel color. White onions are better because they have higher moisture content and are slightly sweeter than yellow onions.

Ginger root is useful for digestion. So, if you do not like the smell of butter as it is heating, chew on a small piece of ginger. It helps!!

Posted by: Nameless Coward at Jan 1, 2007 1:04:51 PM

How to cook with Hungarian spices:

Spice: Paprika (none of that fake Spanish stuff).

Um... Base: Onions.

Lard can be added for richness.

Any questions? ;) (kidding, just kidding)

Posted by: speedwell at Jan 1, 2007 1:10:27 PM

"Spice: Paprika (none of that fake Spanish stuff)."

Obviously, this person is not familiar with the "Spanish stuff."
Spain brought paprika to Europe and it has been used commonly throughout
Spain in all types of cooking. Most consider the Hungarian a bit hotter,
but I doubt 'speedwell' could tell the difference between the two. Only
specialists really can. They are very similar in taste these days due to
uniform growing methods and the quality is on the same level for both
countries. They are the top quality producers in the world.

Posted by: heath at Jan 1, 2007 4:44:45 PM

I cook like Daddy (a '56 Hungarian emigre) taught me, and he would not buy anything but "real Hungarian paprika." I'm glad to know that in a pinch I may rely on the fake Spanish stuff.

In any case, you took this way too seriously; I was parodying Tyler's suggestion to not buy the Mexican kind of cinnamon. Which if you had taken your head out of your, um, stuffed shirt long enough to read and appreciate, you would have understood.

Posted by: speedwell at Jan 1, 2007 6:39:53 PM

Can we take up a collection to buy somebody a sense of humor?

Posted by: speedwell at Jan 1, 2007 6:40:58 PM

Don't forget the vinegar. You can't make vindaloo without it.

Posted by: M.D. Fatwa at Jan 2, 2007 1:43:41 AM

"Sauteed and pureed yellow onions"

Red onions are preferred.

Here's my contribution to beginner Indian curries.

Posted by: Joe Grossberg at Jan 2, 2007 11:29:07 AM

Sorry, I missed that line. I didn't mean to offend you, just that
I didn't want anyone to miss out on the Spanish stuff. The Spanish
smoke it which gives it a different flavor profile. And the Hungarian
paprika isn't as hot as it used to be due to the uniform growing methods.
I would still use Hungarian paprika for more heat, but the Spanish one is
good for other applications. For example, any dish with octopus would do
much better with the Spanish one. However, in any goulash, or stew for
that matter, would probably benefit from the Hungarian one. That being
said, the paprikas from Hungary and Spain are top in the world.

Again, I didn't mean to offend you. How is that collection coming?

Posted by: heath at Jan 2, 2007 11:38:15 AM

Is it difficult to make Indian breads at home? How is the frozen naan from an Indina grocer or Trader Joe's?

I don't know about naan, but the pre-prepared pappadum cook well in the microwave.

Posted by: rcriii at Jan 2, 2007 3:52:17 PM

Your method is identical to mine. I spent a while researching various Indian recipes, and created a heuristic that matches yours perfectly.

Only then did Indian cooking become an art for me, rather than merely following recipe algorithms.

(Can you tell I'm a computer scientist? :> )

Posted by: Mike at Jan 2, 2007 6:40:34 PM

Or you could do what I did....marry an Indian woman who likes to cook. All I need to do is slice and dice on command. As for breads the only bread we make is chappatis. They are easy to make at home.

Posted by: Michael at Jan 2, 2007 8:10:01 PM

I've had some success with naan in my gas oven on a baking stone. I'd be curious if anyone with a comal has tried it for naan, and if they were happy with the results.

Posted by: Cyrus at Jan 2, 2007 9:59:55 PM

rcriii,
Pappadums (the right name is 'pappadam') are not for cooking, they are for frying.Pappadam is the 'Malayalam' name, 'pappad' the Hindi name and 'appalam' the Tamil name.However, there are delicate differences.'Pappadam' has to be fried in coconut oil-there are big, medium and small ones, all available in the State of Kerala, the "Guruvayoor" pappadam being the most famous.If you are lucky, you will get extra large size pappadams.In vegetarian feasts in the State of Kerala, for example a marriage feast, first boiled rice , boiled gram called 'parippu'and over it warm ghee will be given .It is customary to crush 'pappadam' and mix it with 'parippu'and boiled rice and to start your meal.You will get other South Indian (of the Kerala variety like 'sambar', 'aviyal','kalan','olan','thoran','koottukari','erissery','pulissery','rasam',buttermilk ,a number of pickles made out of special type of big local lemon,green mango,ginger, green chillies, banana chips both plain and fried with jaggery-dried ginger mix and other related items followed by 'payasams' made of milk,vermicelli or 'ada', sugar, cashew, dried grapes, elaichi etc or payasams made out of jaggery and a variety of combinations like ada, banana,jack fruit, wheat,gram etc for which coconut milk is an essential ingredient) curries and dishes only after the 'pappadam-parippu-ghee' episode.

Posted by: GVV at Jan 3, 2007 9:41:50 AM

Well, due to the difficulty of finding anyone who wants to pay me two cents for my opinion (why should they pay when I give out such copious free samples?), not so hot so far. (Unlike Spanish paprika, lol.) Thanks.

Posted by: speedwell at Jan 3, 2007 1:03:31 PM


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