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Northern Mexico bleg
In seven days' time I will spend a few days in northern Mexico. I am researching, among other topics, how health and safety regulations influence food markets and why a border can matter so much for foodstuffs. My sites will be Hermosillo, Chihuahua, and Tijuana. Do you have any recommendations? I won't have much free time. No whales, no Copper Canyon, etc., but of course I will eat three (or more?) meals a day and have some time in each city. I thank you in advance for your ideas.
Someday I will relate to you my misguided and delusional plan to visit every major urban area in the New World. I would not have otherwise made it to Hermosillo, so perhaps the gods are on my side.
Posted by Tyler Cowen on January 22, 2006 at 04:04 PM in Travels | Permalink
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Comments
For Tijuana I will have to ask my brother for specifics (even though is my home state), but almost certainly will be seafood and tacos (from a stand). If you have the time, go to Puerto Nuevo just south of Rosarito, and have lobster Mexican style. Also, the Valle de Guadalupe between Ensenada and Tecate (of beer's fame) produces some world class wines and there are good tasting places for them in TJ.
As a guide, in Hermosillo you should try machaca Sonoran style and the gianormous flour tortillas. Carne asada (in Northwest Mexico we don't call it fajitas, although is creeping in) is what Sonora is known for. For Mexican style (meaning light) breakfast or dinner try coyotas, which are flatbreads with piloncillo paste between two dough sheets. Sonora indigenous drink is bacanora, it's an aguardiente even stronger than tequila or mezcal and to my knowledge, with very small distribution outside the State.
I don't know much about Cd. Juarez food offerings, but Menonite cheese is what we always longed for when my father used to go there. Ask for "queso menonita".
Posted by: Jose Luis Trejo at Jan 22, 2006 8:00:13 PM
I spent about a week in the Guaymas, San Carlos, Empalme area about a year ago and I was floored by how fresh and tasty the shrimp were, so I would definitely second the suggestion to eat some seafood in Hermosillo.
Posted by: Graeme Williams at Jan 22, 2006 8:10:17 PM
pozole (surtido) and quesadilla de sesos are probably the two dishes you must try in northern mexico, they can't be found anywhere else. The pozoe is a soup with some interesting ingredients, and the quesadilla is the same but in tortilla form.
Posted by: r. williams at Jan 22, 2006 9:58:33 PM
Best place I found in Puerto Nuevo - go straight down the main road you come in on, make a right when you must, then go straight to the restaurant with a patio overlooking the water.
Posted by: Pedro Bento at Jan 23, 2006 8:07:28 AM
Queso menonita, at least at the Chihuahua supermarket where I habitually bought supplies many years ago, was good Cheddar from the Mennonite colony in the west of the state. The accompanying display featured a mannequin of a blonde, blue-eyed Mennonite woman in historically typical costume -- long grey dress and sunbonnet.
(I was doing mining exploration in the hills west of El Sueco, the little desert crossroads that always makes one wonder -- what was the Swede doing there?).
Posted by: johne at Jan 23, 2006 1:15:56 PM
Here is some valuable advice for how to avoid travelers' diarrhea. The prescription, basically, says chew up 2 Pepto-Bismol tablets, or their generic Wal-Mart "Equate" equivalent, before every meal (with a bottle of water) and then eat fish tacos from the roadside stand con mucho gusto. I have traveled various places in Mexico, Costa Rica, and Thailand using this technique and had many marvelous eating experiences that the over-cautious never get.
The WHO found, at one point, that this prophylactic treatment was as good as antibiotics.
I don't have the specific cite, but the CDC has a summary of this research:
http://www.cdc.gov/ncidod/dbmd/diseaseinfo/travelersdiarrhea_g.htm
Posted by: PeptoHubby at Jan 23, 2006 2:51:51 PM
I would love to join you for the shrimp stuffed lobster at Puerto Nuevo. But, conscience and classes prevail. What to make of my students' offer of travel money.?
Posted by: edwardseco at Jan 24, 2006 12:29:47 AM
@Prof Cowen:
In Juarez there used to Julio's Cafe Corona, but it's been something else for over a decade now. There's Frida's down near one of the malls, where I was taken last June. I forget the street, but ask around, it's fairly well known, not very expensive, and very worth it. If you are headed out on Friday and like salsa, it's worth visiting Tumbao for the band, the crowd, and the mojitos. If you are on the run, there's Tacos Al Carbon (both a dish and a local chain straddling the border). Similar to but not the same as fajitas or tacos de carne asada, they're worth the trip. Good luck with the enchiladas rojas, perhaps the pepto-bismol will help!
Side note: supposedly Northern Mexican cuisine evolved from what was on hand, which happened to be stuff that survived well without a lot of rain or food on the hoof. Not a surprise that we eat all sorts of parts of the cow.
My absolute favorite cheese is asadero oaxaca, which isn't really available in the US, which is somewhere between mozzarella and string cheese in behavior and texture but has its own flavor (it's not the same as the cheeses offered as oaxaca or asadero here); many pleasant lunches were made of ripping enough off of a kilo to fill a fresh tortilla (from tortillerias around the corner from the Futurama or the S-Mart we shopped at). Speaking of which, if time allows, make sure that you visit a tortilleria, they taste better than anything you've probably had north of the border. Also, since many of the bottling companies still use real sugar, Coke tastes so much better.
PS. Whatever happened with the bbq? I am keen to find out what you were investigating (other than more sources of good food), and what you found out.
@r. williams:
It depends on where one is from. In some places, what I call menudo (the world's best hangover cure: beef tripe and hominy soup spiced with red chile) is called pozole when you change the beef to pork intestines, or just remove the meat altogether, or change it to green chile and pork, and so on. Apparently Salvadorenos use menudo to refer to something similar to what I call pozole, and I've known people from elsewhere who refer to yet another type of soup. Quesadillas, however, are pretty much the same from one place to another -- American style using flour tortillas or the original using corn tortillas, in both cases with any stuffing depending on the house's menu. Asadero en tortilla de maiz con pastor, mmmm.
Dr. B at one point bitched about people calling salsa fresca by the moniker pico de gallo, but she apparently hasn't spent significant enough time in the Latin world to realize that this phenomenon (same name, different concoctions; different name, same dish) exists throughout the Latin world.
Posted by: agm at Jan 24, 2006 2:52:00 AM
Visit the fish markets and mercado Hidalgo in Tijuana; for fine dining recommendations visit http://hungryhiker-tj.com/
Posted by: meerlo at Jan 24, 2006 4:53:32 PM
Tyler,
my favorite place for a nice meal in Tijuana is called "La Espadaña".
10813 Avenida Sanchez Taboada
Any cab will know where that is.
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