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Are we moving away from tipping?

A top New York restaurant is replacing tipping with a mandatory twenty percent service charge.  In many other areas, such as hotels, tipping is declining as well.

Most economic analyses of tipping ask why so many customers will give up money for no apparent return.  Put this puzzle aside, and ask why an establishment might move to the fixed charge. 

Ralph Frasca explains the legal difference between a tip and a service charge.  The employer may legally keep the service charge but not the tip.  This suggests at least three hypotheses:

1. A restaurant is using the new service charge to raise prices.  One of the new service charges is set at 20 percent, which is more than most people tip.  (Do note: this one particular New York restaurant claims they wish to redress the distribution of tip money in favor of the kitchen and away from serving staff.  Furthermore the restaurant is fancy, and some customers do tip 20 percent or more there.)

2. The balance of power in labor markets is shifting against workers.  We therefore see owners trying to capture tipping income.  Some of this income will be given back in the form of higher wages, but some of it will be kept by owners.  Perhaps this is the most palatable way of rewriting the implicit labor-management contract.

3. Employers can monitor waiter/waitress quality better than before.  So why leave compensation in the hands of the customers?  Under this hypothesis, employers are not looking to capture tipping income, rather they seek to control it by their own standards.

Here is James Surowiecki on tipping.  Here is a New York Times article on tipping.  Here is my previous post on tipping.  Comments are on, and thanks to Stephen Bainbridge for a pointer and suggestion.

Addendum: One ranting waiter notes: "Experience has shown that customers use verbal praise to supplement a poor monetary reward."

Posted by Tyler Cowen on August 30, 2005 at 08:00 AM in Economics | Permalink

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» What is the tip ?? from news views and analysis
Tyler Cowen @ Marginal Revolution asks "Are we moving away from tipping?"... [Read More]

Tracked on Aug 30, 2005 9:45:23 AM

» More little tips from coffee grounds
Tyler Cowen has another interesting (link-rich) post on tipping.... [Read More]

Tracked on Aug 30, 2005 11:00:11 AM

» An economist's work is never done . . . from Newmark's Door
Economists don't understand well why people tip. Now Tyler Cowen wants an explanation for why some restaurants are getting rid of tipping. An economist's work is never done . . . [Read More]

Tracked on Aug 31, 2005 9:03:26 AM

» Tips, Service Charges and Taxes. from Tim Worstall
Tyler Cowen and Division of Labour are chewing over the legal differences between tips and service charges. (via Newmark’s Door). [Read More]

Tracked on Sep 3, 2005 6:04:14 AM

» Tips, Service Charges and Taxes. from Tim Worstall
Tyler Cowen and Division of Labour are chewing over the legal differences between tips and service charges. (via Newmark’s Door). As someone who has worked as a bartender and waiter in both the US and the UK, may I add [Read More]

Tracked on Sep 3, 2005 6:47:56 AM

» Tips, Service Charges and Taxes. from Tim Worstall
Tyler Cowen and Division of Labour are chewing over the legal differences between tips and service charges. (via Newmark’s Door). As someone who has worked as a bartender and waiter in both the US and the UK, may I add [Read More]

Tracked on Sep 3, 2005 6:54:59 AM

Comments

"2. The balance of power in labor markets is shifting against workers."
Or the opposite, the workers are taking on risk by using the tipping method, verses a flat wage.
I suppose the way to work out if tipping benefits workers or employers more is to compare how well they do in non-tipping countries verses tipping countries.

Posted by: Factory at Aug 30, 2005 8:57:54 AM

Evidence against the "stealth price increase" hypothesis is that, at least
according to the Times, average tips at Per Se were 22 percent, so this actually reduces the average tip.

Evidence against the "implicit wage bargain" hypothesis is the fact that Per Se is a very new restaurant. Wouldn't this hypothesis imply that older restaurants were more likely to need to restructure their contracts with workers?

What's the evidence for improved monitoring? And what are they monitoring?

In short, I'm not really impressed with any of these hypotheses, and I'm REALLY unimpressed with the the "sharing with back of house" hypothesis.

When a new (to the US) practice like this emerges, we need first to see if it survives to see if it means anything at all. And even if it survives, does it spread? And does it remain confined at the top-end restaurants or does it makes it way to Applebees? Then we can do some economics.

Posted by: Jonathan at Aug 30, 2005 9:53:35 AM

Signaling?

"Good evening, sir. Welcome to Per Se, where we have the finest in cuisine and service. As such 15% will simply not do. It would be an insult to our highly trained and knowledgable wait staff. No, we will not have any of the 18% riff raff in here. Not at Per Se, thank you."

Posted by: josh at Aug 30, 2005 10:54:50 AM

There are also tax implications -- tips can be (illegally) underreported by the wait staff, but service charges presumably cannot. Not sure exactly how that plays in (fear of audits? computation of benefits?), but it might.

Posted by: KipEsquire at Aug 30, 2005 10:58:29 AM

Or perhaps a recognition that tipping imposes unnecessary transaction costs on the customer. You get a different perspective on tipping when you come from a place where it is not customary. Here's my Aussie in the US perspective: http://1800blackhole.blogspot.com/2005/08/signs-of-sanity-on-tipping.html

Posted by: Dan Hill at Aug 30, 2005 11:05:43 AM

I don't have all the details, but, for example, at Smith & Wollensky's (NY), waiters buy and sell the tables of regulars due to the favoratism of existing relationships that engender mega-tips.

Posted by: Forbes at Aug 30, 2005 11:14:35 AM

Alternate hypothesis: They don't want you to tip less for your wine than for your food.

A number of top restaurants do this; I have been happy with the service at these restaurants, except perhaps at Berkeley's Chez Panisse (the restaurant downstairs) where service on the night I was there was mediocre at best. To me a fixed service charge says "we are professionals who provide a certain level of service, regardless of whether we think you are an easy mark for a 30% tip." Of course they can break that contract, but judging by Keller's French Laundry I wouldn't worry about Per Se. If you are worried that service will suck without the almighty lure of the tip, that is fine; Per Se certainly does not need your business.

Posted by: gundryggia at Aug 30, 2005 11:34:24 AM

I am not sure why the restaurateur would care about how much is being tipped on wine, since that money goes into the server's pocket.

Although, this does raise a good point. I suspect the restaurant will see slower wine sales and register more complaints over adding a charge for this than any particular part of the policy. I'd make the prediction that they might eventually move to either a set corkage fee to keep from discouraging expensive wines that already carry a high markup, or they exclude or adjust the percentage downward for wine bottle purchases.

Posted by: Brad at Aug 30, 2005 11:47:08 AM

Coming from (less-tipping) Ireland, I'm with Dan Hill. Maybe they're doing it because customers don't like tipping.

Posted by: william at Aug 30, 2005 1:12:27 PM

Speaking anecdotally, as I work two jobs that are customarily tipped (as a waiter and pizza delivery driver) one of the biggest gains to the owner by switching to a service charge is that it emphasizes increasing sales. In borderline situations such as children's drinks, sharing, or in the case of pizza poor delivery times, it is custumary for the server/driver to not charge customers for small things, letting them know about the price break, and using this goodwill to generate tips for the individual worker at the expense of the establishment.

Posted by: Scott Hunter at Aug 30, 2005 1:28:39 PM

Something I've wondered about: Why should we tie the tip to the price of the meal? Does it really take 3 or 4 times as much skill/effort to deliver a fine steak than say some scrambled eggs?

Posted by: David Faden at Aug 30, 2005 2:00:19 PM

The thing that troubles me the most about tipping is the implicit pressure to meet some sort of lower bound. I have no problem tipping 15% for adequate service, and 20% or more for extraordinary service, but why is it that I am so reluctant to go below 10% even if the service was abominable and it was all the surly waiter's fault?

Posted by: Joe Ganley at Aug 30, 2005 3:46:10 PM

No one has mentioned the tax angle. Waiters often "forget" to report all of their cash tip income to the IRS. Putting them on the payroll will ensure fuller revenue collection.

Posted by: Robert Schwartz at Aug 30, 2005 4:26:02 PM

Another hypothesis is that, this being New York, many patrons are actually tourists who come from countries where tipping is not customary. NY waiters may be getting a better deal out of this mandatory "service charge" than with optional tipping. (Even if, as I cynically / economically believe, the mgmt is likely not to give them as much on an individual meal as they would have gotten directly...)

Posted by: Scott at Aug 30, 2005 4:42:00 PM

I worked at a restaurant that had service charges that were not paid to the serving staff, but the staff had higher hourly wages than tipping establishments paid. Though I never walked out with wads of cash at the end of a night, I was also not subject to the financial pain of a slow night either. I never had to to tip out my bus boy and foodrunner as I did at other restaurants, which can be a pain on really slow lunch shifts.

One result of the different payment schemes were different kinds of servers. By and large the servers at the service charge restaurant are working there as a primary vocation. They are professionals. At tipping establishments you are far more likely to encounter servers who are waiting tables as they go to college. They are earning extra cash.

I don't think that abandoning tipping would be all that bad. The single biggest reason people don't return to restaurants is because of poor service. Managers and owners know that a person who doesn't enjoy their experience might still leave a reasonable tip and just never come back. Or even worse, tell their friends not to go there. Restaurants will learn to emphasize a strong service ethos, like any other customer service oriented business.

Posted by: Christina at Aug 30, 2005 6:27:47 PM

My take on tipping in India. In India tipping happens very rarely and is slowly evolving as a practice in the bigger cities. But tipping of a different kind happens, not at restaurants, but at government offices.
This tip is a form of corruption. I tip, I get a better deal. I tip less, I will have to wait a little more. I dont tip at all, I will have to wait for 2 weeks for something that can be done in 2 minutes. Trouble with this is that, there is no standardisation. It depends on the whim and fancy of the "clerk" as to what is a "tip". Which is why, I prefer this kind of a charge built in. I would rather know that if I pay x rupees plus the mandatory fees, I will get it done in 3 days. If I pay y rupees, I get it done in 9 days and so on. Therefore all it means is that is the person who pays a tip will get his job done faster while the person who cannot will get his job done in the usual time, but his service levels are not affected and neither does he have to pay a bribe (i mean, tip).

Posted by: neelakantan at Aug 31, 2005 12:52:56 AM

My problem wiht Hypothesis 1: When a restuarant wants to increase prices, it just increases prices. Why should it suddenly decide to move from one payment system to another? I don't think it is a mere price increase. It must be something else.

Posted by: Ali at Aug 31, 2005 10:47:57 AM

Coming from a bar/pub point of view i can see the benefit of removing tipping and replacing with service charges. Many bartenders/servers will "let a drink or two disappear" from the bill in hopes that the customer will tip more to make up for this act. And in turn will come back in the future and continue to tip well. This obviously hurts the owner of the establishment who makes nothing on this exchange and loses out on what should have been paid.

Posted by: callmemickey at Aug 31, 2005 11:32:22 AM

This is a pure hypothesis, since I am not familiar with the financial arrangements that the particular restaurant has with its workers. But, assume that the restaurant believes (or is under strong social pressure to believe) that its customers will feel better about frequenting it, if it provides a "living wage" and conventional employee benefits, such as health insurance. By imposing a service charge, rather than paying a lower wage and relying on tips to workers to make up the difference based on merit, the restaurant can: (a) increase the nominal amount it pays its workers and therefore claim that it is compensating its workers better (even if this is not actually true, especially for the better workers because the loss of tips exceeds the increase in compensation) and (b) claim to be socially responsible by providing health insurance, rather than allowing the workers to make the choice whether to buy this for themselves from their tip revenues. If this hypothesis has any validity, then factor 2 would appear to be in play, but the reason for the employer exercising greater power has to do with meeting social agendas which reduce the autonomy of the workers to bargain to maximize their benefit. Also, if this hypothesis has any validity, it would tend to work against factor 3, because it would probably lead to more uniformity in the individual workers' compensation which would be inconsistent with compensating workers on the basis of merit.

Posted by: DWG at Sep 2, 2005 12:44:30 PM

Can’t get trackbacks to work today, sorry. It’sthe tax system which makes this change so silly. Long post here:
http://timworstall.typepad.com/timworstall/2005/09/tips_service_ch.html
In essence, by moving from tips to a service charge a restaurant in NYC reduces waiter’s income from 79 cents on the dollar spent by the customer to 53 cents on the dollar.

Posted by: Tim Worstall at Sep 3, 2005 6:58:13 AM

It is pretty clear that tipping is a classic phenomenon of the evolution of social norms. It is not a payoff for service, and there is now a large literature on this. The consensus is pretty much there.

The really odd phenomenon is that the average tipping rate in the US seems to be going up from 15% to 20%. However, this seems to be occurring in the most expensive restaurants in the largest cities. This is clearly not a matter of rewarding the needy waitpeople, who are already best tipped in those restaurants. This looks like some one-up-manship game among clients in these restaurants, which has been generating a new norm.

Posted by: Barkley Rosser at Sep 5, 2005 3:28:40 PM

I would like to clarify some misconceptions in the article-- as they relate to NYC specifically. I have been in the industry for 30 years-- & have worked every single front & back of the house position, including managing & owning.

1. The rules / economic business model of restaurants differ in NYC, as opposed to most other locations in this great country of ours, because the island of Manhattan is a finite space AND most everyone in this world would like to own or rent a piece of it: meaning it's a seller's market, thus exorbitant rents & purchase prices are the norm. Anybody wanting retail space in Manhattan is competing against the entire world's mega-corporations that want a presence here and are willing to absorb huge losses for this privilege.
Additionally, freight/goods cannot be transported cheaply into Manhattan-- to wit by railway. Freight is offloaded in neighboring states, loaded on trucks by well-renumerated Teamsters, who make sure the Mafia takes their cut. The delivery trucks then absorb innumerable tolls & driving/parking tickets during their destination.
And a new high-class restaurant further needs to wow/compete vs others of its ilk by maybe importing its crystal glassware from France, the silverware from Germany, fill the place with fresh flowers & plants bought daily, bring in a big name like Tihany, Rockwell, Kadir to design...It then pretty much has to be busy / packed from the get to to overcome this skewed business model, leading many restauranteurs to cut corners-- here are just some of the ways:

But firstly, let me directly address the article:
The restaurant doing this is called Per Se, chef Thomas Keller's(The Laundry in Napa, California) first foray into NY-- and what he is doing amounts to legalized stealing from the waiters. The average check per person in this establishment, BTW is more than $100(person, not couple!).
Firstly, "NewYorkers at fine restaurants" tip an average of 22%(they usually tip 20% of the total including tax, and round it up--equaling a tip of 22% before tax...and the restaurant will only charge 20% before tax)-- this has become the defacto average tip, which of course goes into the 30's for outstanding service--in NYC when a waiter receives only 15% it's usually for bad service or because the customer is a cheapskate. In NY most are just used to tipping-- & tipping extra-- for better service, from the delivery guy to the super to the checkout bagger to the clerk at Starbucks, etc.
The reasoning Keller gives is that he doesn't want the waiters making more than the cooks-- thereby letting slip that he's basically not paying his cooks much-- and that he's cutting corners like some others:

2. He and most name chefs feel that anyone working in their kitchen(s) is very privileged because-- this enhances their resume & teaches them their cooking secrets, thus possibly enabling them to become chefs & have their own restaurants; so they need to pay for this 'apprenticeship & career boost' of sorts by pretty much working for minimum wage(btw porters & dishwashers end up working for even less than minimum). Of course it's not labeled officially as such-- most salaried employees at all positions are either given some title and/or paid 'shift pay' instead of by the hour-- and the rate for the shift pay is based on what the normal hourly rate would be times 8 hours. This way they get folks to put in 10-14 hour shifts daily, and also avoid any overtime pay rate issues. When folks complain about the length of their shifts being over 8 hours, the usual responses are that it's taking them too long to finish all their duties & they are not allowed to ever leave without completing them, as that would be considered abandoning the job...plus also that there's a long line of folks hoping to take their job. So a cook will end up working 80-100+ hours a week for a $400-500 salary, a dishwasher ditto hours for $250-350.
3. Under the guise of showing discipline, hard work, and commitment to the establishment-- a lot of cleanup and setup duties normally performed by porters & dishwashers are shunted off to the busboys, since their salary is much smaller due to tips.
4. And in turn, a lot of busboy duties are assigned to waiters since their salary is even smaller. A subset of this is that not as many busboys are hired nowadays as in the old days-- instead of one busboy per waiter, it's now one per each two or three waiters-- nowadays waiters bus. water, & bread most of their tables.
5. FYI For every $10 a waiter receives in tips, he/she keeps $3-4-- they must tip everyone: hostesses(make up for their meager salaries!), managers(sometimes, not everywhere), bartender, busboy, runners(special waiters who do nothing but bring food out of the kitchen), coffeemen, wine sommelier, and 4% fee to the house on all charge tips...and of course, taxes are due on those remaining tips.
Rents in Manhattan: Good luck finding a studio for less than $1000, one bedroom for less than 2K(and of course, these are bottom of the barrel...figure more like $1500 & 2500 respectively)-- and since it's a landlord's market, they often demand that the whole year's rent be paid up front, + security, etc.
6. Thomas Keller also claims that in exchange, waiters will get full medical, dental, and vision after 90 days(something only available at an establishment with an organized union in place-- which doesn't apply to him btw). But you know what? No thank you-- between the 90 days imposed by him, and further, the initial 30-60 of treatment elegibility imposed
by the plan provider-- that's a huge amount of time. Just give me my money & i'll get that on my own-- anyhow, free dental plan means squat when extensive & high-quality dental work is needed.
7. Which gets us to one final trick employed by 'union houses': there is a 90 day trial period for new hires(for NYC hospitality unions at least-- used to be 60 days, and before that 30 days), before one is elegible for any & all benefits, including better pay rate-- which can be set at minimum wage for the duration of the trial period. Would you like to know how many times i've coincidentally been let go on the 89th day?

So in conclusion, Thomas Keller is only out for himself. AND he feels that professional waiters & bartenders should put in long shifts & go home in the wee hours BUT not make too much money-- he'll take some of their money and just use it to lower his labor costs.

This is one situation that screams for a labor union to get voted in by the staff. Unfortunately, hospitality unions are a dying breed in NYC.

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