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Singapore food bleg
I'll be in Singapore July 25-28, and I would like to know where to eat. Yes that means food stalls too. Or if you live in Singapore, and can speak intelligently about the history of food there, I would be keen to meet you. Comments, of course, are open.
Posted by Tyler Cowen on July 17, 2005 at 08:05 AM in Food and Drink | Permalink
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Comments
1) Hawker stalls. Clark Quay is touristy but there is good stuff. One can
combine eating with souvenir shoping.
2) I like Blue Ginger. It's a peranankan/nonya restaurant in the Tajong
Pagar area.
3) Annalakshmi. Great Indian veg.
4) Alkaff Mansion. Indonesian. Food is good, and they put on a great show
serving it.
Posted by: Acad Ronin at Jul 17, 2005 8:53:54 AM
You'll be coming to Singapore in the midst of the Singapore Food Festival (www.singaporefoodfestival.com) so you'll definitely have a chance to find out a lot about local food and the history behind them etc.
And this is where I refer you to singaporean food bloggers such as Chubby Hubby (www.chubbyhubby.net) or Umami (umami.typepad.com) who might be able to help you out better.
I think you could walk into any hawker centre or food court to get a sense of the various Sinagporean staples and a sense of how most Singaporeans eat.
Zion Road, Tiong Bahru Market, Maxwell Road and Newton Hawker Centres are all good places with lots of variety.
Posted by: enuwy at Jul 17, 2005 9:42:00 AM
Singapore food can get quite spicy, so beware. Food to try:
1) Hainanese Chicken Rice
2) Seafood
3) Char Kway Teow
4) Laksa
5) Peranakan Food
6) Roti Prata (a crispy Indian pancake)
I would recommend trying food at:
1) Hawker Centres. I recommend the Old Airport Road Hawker Centre. The food there is uniformly of high quality, reasonably priced, and shows how Singaporeans normally eat.
2) For chicken rice, try either Boon Tong Kee or Five Star chicken rice, which can be found in many places. Bukit Timah road has both Boon Tong Kee and Five Star.
3) For Laksa, try Katong Laksa. It is located in the Katong District, which also has a good number of imitators. The original Katong Laksa is ironically found in a stall called 'Marine Parade Laksa'.
4) Seafood - try the East Coast seafood centre - there're a number of restaurants there that will prepare seafood (including massive Alaskan crabs) any way you choose. Chili Crab is a popular way of preparing crabs, if you like spicy food.
5) For Peranakan food (which fuses a number of different cuisines together) try Chili Padi in Joo Chiat. Blue Ginger at Tanjong Pagar also offers an authentic experience.
6) If you are game for more exotic foods, try the Imperial Herbal Restaurant at the Metropole Hotel in Purvis Street. An experience you are unlikely to forget.
Posted by: fj at Jul 17, 2005 9:46:53 AM
When I visited Singapore in 1995, my wife and I loved this little restaurant:
Happy Realm Vegetarian Food
100 Eu Tong Sen St., #03-136
6222-6141
Vegetarian Restaurant.
Of course, in 10 years it might have changed.
Posted by: Michael H. at Jul 17, 2005 10:45:39 AM
This is going to sound a little stalkery, but I've been lurking on MR for a while now and would absolutely be game to meet up for gastronomic adventures. I grew up in Singapore but now live in New York City; I'm in town through July 31st, which works out nicely, and my fellow economist-foodie friend and I would be honored to take you out for dinner one of the nights you're here. If you'd like to check out a hawker center, or a Peranakan restaurant, or chicken rice, or roti prata, we know where to go, and are game for anything! (Loved your IACP address, btw -- when I went to Mexico, I too ate at nothing but comedors and roadside stands. Hawker centers are kind of the same thing, and great flavour bang for your buck.)
Feel free to contact me at this email address if you'd like to grab a bite. =) Hope to meet you soon.
Posted by: Michelle at Jul 17, 2005 10:47:49 AM
Hi! I am a Singaporean living in DC right now and I consult your guide to ethnic foods religiously whenever I want to check out a new restaurant. Let me assure you that your opinion of Malaysian/Singaporean food in the DC area will be significantly changed when you return from Singapore! There's just no substitute.
One thing you simply have to try would be the seafood (which have not been successfully reproduced here). Black pepper crabs and grilled sambal stingrays and mussels are some of my personal favorites. There are some seafood restaurants by East Coast beach which will serve reliably good examples of these. Another local dish which hasn't been replicated here is fish head curry. I think a good one can be found at Muthu's in Little India, but lots of hawker stalls serve this great dish too.
Posted by: YL at Jul 17, 2005 11:05:33 AM
I have never been in Singapore, but I was friends with a bunch of people from Penang when I lived in London who took me to the best expatriate food stops.
The best dish was what they called "Singapore-style" laksa. I have had a laksa without the prefix, and it was nowhere near as good.
I don't recall the name of it, but avoid a dessert that contains kidney beans, corn, palm jelly and other stuff over shaved ice. It's like eating a cold burrito.
Posted by: Dave Tufte at Jul 17, 2005 11:42:50 AM
Drop us a line, my friends and I would love to have an excuse to indulge!
The char kway teow place my friends and I often go to is the Holland drive one - check it out. For roti prata, we usually go to the 24hr ones at Bk. Timah and Clementi (which is cheese prata) at 3am, which is the best time for a greasy treat.
Note that if you're going for the east coast seafood restaurants, you should call up and reserve a table beforehand as it can be pretty crowded depending on what time and day of the week it is. Get the chilli crab.
Posted by: qui tacet consentire videtur at Jul 17, 2005 11:54:28 AM
Visited Singapore once in 1995, and boy do the Singaporeans love to eat!
I can't say enough about the excellent Indian vegetarian food on Serangoon Rd (Little India)
Also, here's a good website I dug up for a friend couple years ago...
http://www.makantime.com/
Posted by: AR at Jul 17, 2005 12:33:21 PM
I cherish my semi-frequent trips to Singapore for the Southern Indian food in Little India mentioned above. It has become a little touristy, so poke around a bit and find an authentic spot.
To me, one of the best culinary experiences in the world, is a pile rice on a banana leaf, limitless curry and sambols - all eaten without your bare hands and the admiring smiles of the local and expatriate Indians. It all costs about $2.
Posted by: Jack at Jul 17, 2005 3:01:54 PM
Tyler -- This past April I stayed in Singapore for one night, which was just long enough to try several excellent noodle dishes at a cafe directly across the street from my Chinatown hotel: http://www.royalpeacockhotel.com/ . Though backpackers' hotels and pubs occupied the street corners and the surroundings reminded me ominously of Disneyland's Main Street USA, the cafe was patronized by locals and the rest of the neighborhood was dotted with art studios, small bookstores, and other alternative culture venues. Nearby within walking distance (at least on the Friday night I was there) several blocks were barricaded from traffic and canopied with decorative lights, and food stalls, grills, and tables spilled out of restaurants and onto the street. The locals (and, after a couple queries and observations, yours truly) went for the Northern Chinese hot pots. And the convenience store across from the before-mentioned cafe carried Fabio's favorite Philippine ice cream: http://www.ramarfoods.com/main.asp?p=icecream ! All in all, a delightful contradiction of Singapore's antiseptic image. Take MRT to the Outram Park station on the purple line. Cheers, Liz Pisares (Fabio Rojas' SO)
Posted by: elizp at Jul 17, 2005 3:58:54 PM
Tyler,
Singapore and Food -- two words that constitute a dangerous combination. I think this city has the highest concentration of eateries per square km anywhere on earth.
And, I'll be happy to host lunch/dinner :-)
Posted by: Nitin Pai at Jul 18, 2005 2:54:09 AM
Best Indian food in town is Our Village, 46 Boat Quay.
Eat on the roof, nice view of waterfront area on river. Don't worry about rain, they can cover it. You'll see.
Posted by: Infra Miner at Jul 18, 2005 5:13:17 AM
You've already gotten a suggestion for makantime.com above.
Let me also suggest http://www.makansutra.com/ -- a guide definitely
worth having. Their website also has Singapore food discussion
forums: http://www.makansutra.com/forums/singapore/
Where are you going to be? Where are you staying?
In the Orchard Road area it's worth checking out Takashimaya's basement
food court. (Basement 2, right under the Takashimaya Department Store,
a huge number of food stalls, mostly Asian and very affordable.)
Opposite Takashimaya is Paragon, and in the basement there you'll
find Din Tai Fung which is famous for xiao long bao. There's usually
a decent line but it moves fast.
Posted by: Gary at Jul 18, 2005 9:23:56 AM
Laksa. You'll love it.
(black) Pepper Crab - I still dream about it.
Hawker Stalls - never ever had a bad dish in one.
My sister and brother-in-law lived there for 3 years and decided that since food isn't political it replaced politics as a safe topic to argue about in Singapore.
Posted by: Michael Tinkler at Jul 18, 2005 10:18:12 AM
You are no doubt aware of Chowhound.com. I suggest posting on the International board there, or trying to contact "Limster," one of the best posters on the Boston board and, I believe, a Singapore expat.
Good luck and be sure to report back!
Posted by: T: Central at Jul 18, 2005 12:02:49 PM
Raffles Hotel
1 Beach Road
Singapore 189673
Tel: +65-6337-1886
Raffles was the great hotel/restaurant/pub for British expats stationed in Asia in the last century of the Empire. It was the home-away-from-home for any Brit in Southeast Asia. Warning: the last time I was there was January 1988, when it was still quite the original (no air conditioning - just ceiling fans, pealing paint). There was a major renovation in 1991. If there is anything of the original left, it will be in the Long Bar where the Singapore Sling was invented.
Posted by: Ed Steussy at Jul 18, 2005 2:29:28 PM
Tyler:
I don't have much new to add, but I will add some endorsements of some of the suggestions above.
Black pepper crab and/or chili crab are a must -- East Coast seafood centre is the most famous place to go, but you will also find them in plenty of other places. Remember to order steamed buns to go with them. Among Hawker Courts, I don't think anyone has mentioned Lau Pa Sat yet; this is my favorite place to get Barbecued ray. (Newton Hawker Centre gets mentioned in lots of guidebooks, but it's kind of touristy and I think the food is only ok; I would avoid it.) Little India has lots of great restaurants, with fish-head curry being a classic dish (though you should only order it if you like seriously spicy food); Muthu's curry (mentioned above) has gone more upscale than it used to be, but the food is still very good. An alternative (fascinating) place to get fish head curry is at Samy's Curry (which is not in Little India). Din Tai Fung is also a good suggestion. The Marriott Cafe, surprisingly, serves a very good laksa.
I would add my name to the list of people offering to host you (I knew Alex back when he was at the University of Virginia), but unfortunately I am in Thailand for the next couple of weeks. Feel free to email if you would like me to elaborate, though.
Posted by: Andrew John at Jul 18, 2005 9:02:06 PM
how pathetic -the only time you open up for comments is advice about restaurants.
Posted by: deb at Jul 18, 2005 9:48:11 PM
I don't recall the name of it, but avoid a dessert that contains kidney beans, corn, palm jelly and other stuff over shaved ice. It's like eating a cold burrito.
Posted by: Dave Tufte
It's a local dessert called ABC (air batu campur, literally "mixed ice"). The recipe and flavours will sometimes vary. It's not bad. Are you really going to shy from experimenting with food in Singapore/Malaysia? Dude, that ain't right.
Posted by: lionel at Jul 18, 2005 11:46:15 PM
To add to my earlier comments, since i realised I left out some recommendations on restaurant dining. I would also be happy to host a meal - just e-mail me.
The heyday of Chinese cuisine in Singapore was probably in the 70s, where there was quite a fair bit of experimentation going on.
For Cantonese restaurants with long traditions, you can try either Red Star (at Hong Lim near Chinatown), or Dragon Phoenix (at Valley Point shopping centre). The latter restaurant claims to have invented Chili crab and the Yam Basket. Both of the founders of the restaurants were members of the '4 heavenly chefs' in the 70s, and they came up with the dish of 'yu sheng'. For Teochew restaurants, I would recommend Hung Kang (North Canal Rd) or Le Kui (Mosque Street).
For fine chinese dining, Club Chinois (Orchard Parade Hotel), Summer Pavilion (Ritz Carlton) or Lei Garden (at CHIJMES), Hua Ting (Orchard Hotel) are pretty good.
For Indian cuisine, Little India is probably the best place to try. Race Course Road has a large number of Indian restaurants.
For Malay cuisine, try the Rendezvous hotel's Nasi Padang, which is fairly famous.
Posted by: fj at Jul 19, 2005 2:20:59 AM
Perhaps all the readers and friends of MR could get together with Tyler for some eats?
Posted by: Han at Jul 19, 2005 5:14:39 AM
As a nine-year resident here AND a native New Orleanian, I think I can speak to food.
Singapore food is great. But be prepared to answer the question "Do you take chilli?" And they mean it.
Of the comments above, I concur especially with fj's recommendations. In addition to roti prata, you should try a murtabak, the same pancake filled with chicken or mutton.
Hawker centers:
1. Clarke Quay hawkers are closed for renovation.
2. Chomp Chomp in Serangoon Garden is a really great local hawker center . Recently renovated with nice tables.
3. The food court in Takashimaya Basement 2 is good, but impossible to get a seat.
4. Adam Road hawker Centre off Bukit Timah is very local, and very good.
5. Newton Circus is rather touristy, and with white skin you get scalped on price, but it's near town and open all night. You just need a local to order for you.
Seafood:
East Coast is great, but if you're stuck in town, Jumbo Seafood has an outlet opposite Clarke Quay in Roverside Point.
Indian:
Agree with the recommendation on Our Village. Also, Racecourse Road has good vegetarian food. Samy's Curry also very good, and VERY hot!
One thing not mentioned above is satay. Obviously, every shishi restaurant in teh States has this now, but you should try the real thing here. Malay stalls don't serve pork, chinese do. Their peanut sauce also varies.
Drinks:
Fruit juice, every possible kind. Freshly squeezed before your eyes.
Lassi, sweet or salty, found at Indian eateries.
Sugar cane with lemon. Awesome.
Feel free to contact me if you need help. Or want to toss a frisbee.
Lance
Posted by: expat coonass at Jul 19, 2005 11:05:57 AM
From a Singaporean who has you on his blogroll, I would be glad to meet you if you're here.
And you've asked about the history of Singapore food, so here's a little amuse bouche: a lot of the classic Singaporean dishes are humble in origin but have become elevated over the years. Curry fish head, for one, is one of the more famous Indian dishes, but is likely not Indian in origin but rather invented here in Singapore, the fish heads presumably being the cheap parts that were usually thrown away. And clearly there are the fingerprints of cross-cultural gastronomic influences all over - the Chinese curry chicken, for instance...
(Oh and a good place for fish head is Muthu's, on Race Course Road.)
Posted by: Daryl at Jul 22, 2005 1:35:59 PM
http://www.livetoeat.com.sg
This website features most of the famous local food found in the hawker centres/food courts in singapore. It goes according to the mrt station. So it will be easy for you to search for food after your shopping here in singapore. Heard they have published this book. Hopefully can find it in the bookstore.
Lastly, hope you have a happy time in singapore
Posted by: Derek at Jun 2, 2006 12:50:18 AM
I am hoppening someone can help me, I was in Singapore when a new coffee shop opened in the Holland village I think it was called the coffee culb this was in 1991, I believe the owners name may be Hiang Kie, the coffee I am looking for is called emerald mountain, if any one can help me find a supplyer, you would make me one happy coffee drinker.
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